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Are you ready?

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Well, let me tell you something.

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This homeboy, this homegirl,

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on the spot.

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Let me ask you something.
What's your name?

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- Dino.
- Where you from?

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Money-making Manhattan.

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- And your name?
- Rosemary.

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- And where are you from?
- Money-making Manhattan.

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You all look kind of fresh.
Tell me something

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about your fashion. What are you
wearing? What are these shoes?

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These are a pair
of Adidas with fat laces.

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That's the way we sport them.

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What do you call
the fashion overall?

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- Fresh.
- Word. Word.

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Let me ask you something.
What about your fashion?

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What about your look?
How do you describe it?

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I call it, you know,
B-boy threads in a way.

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I got a Kangol on.
Pair of Cazals.

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A pair of white-on-white
Adidas with fat laces.

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How do you rock your hat, man?

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How do you rock it?

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I sport it fresh, homes.

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Word. Word.

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Being fresh is more
important than having money.

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The entire time I grew up,
it was like--

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I only wanted money
so I could be fresh.

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now hit me

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Fashion is a whole other thing.

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When you're young,
there's, like,

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a sense of wanting
to express yourself,

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an importance
and individuality.

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Hip-hop culture's
not just about the music;

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it's also about a lifestyle.

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It's people who are free,

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who are exploring their
creativity

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through a kind of free format

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of words, rhyme, language,
music, or visual style.

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The hip-hop culture--

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it had a boldness to it.

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You wanted everybody to know

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that you was down
with this movement.

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You know, fresh to death
like a million bucks.

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and MC Globe

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Come on.
We were big dreamers.

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All of us.
Hip-hop was based on the dream

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of getting it
and coming up out the ghetto,

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and the light at the end of
the tunnel was always, you know,

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the pot of gold,

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the clothes, the fashion.

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Don't stop

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Somebody said to me,
"Your clothes are your wings."

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So, you know, if you want to
fly, you know, these dudes
want to be fly.

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So they gonna put on something
nice, and why shouldn't they?

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And by doing that with the style
that the street guys have,

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we--once we put it on,

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it's a whole different story.

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You know what I'm saying?
We put on the clothes,

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and we take it
to the next level.

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The animal kingdom
and human being world,

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it's--they parallel crazy,

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and, you know, peacocks,

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the way they flare up
to attract their mate,

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and certain animals, you know,

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change up
their whole appearance.

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It's all about that flair,

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that--what you look like.

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How does it radiate off of you?

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And certain African chiefs

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were really ostentatious

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or really, like, out there
with their whole--their garb.

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Like kings,
and how they were painted

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in Great Britain.

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And look at the outfits
they're wearing.

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They looked like royalty.
They looked like kings.

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So wardrobe is--
it's always been a thing.

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You know?

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If you go through the history
of African-American culture,

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particularly
in the 20th century,

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style, fashion, clothes

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were always a very prominent
part of people's identity.

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It allows one
to sort of represent,

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define their own
presentation to the world,

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so to speak.

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Even for people who
maybe didn't have money,

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their own unique way
of wearing something

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came to be a way
for people to be distinct,

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to be identified in a crowd,

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to stand out.

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And I think over time,
if you think about the role
religion has played

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in African-American culture,

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going to church--
the opportunity to dress up--

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it was expected that one
would be dressed a certain way.

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That you would, you know,
look your best.

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The term "Sunday best"

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came from a time in slavery

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when, in order for slave owners

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to be considered
good Christians,

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they had to make sure
that their slaves

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had at least one good outfit

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so that they would go
to church on Sunday

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even though most of them
were practicing other

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African indigenous religions.

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Certainly,
you did put your best on

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when you went to church
on Sunday morning.

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When you got to church,
you saw fashion

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merging with the music,

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because the gospel choir

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was always the thing to watch.

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This is a very important factor

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of how you see style

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in the religious environment
of the church.

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Down in the land of Egypt

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If you talk about
African-American culture,
music especially--

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jazz, blues, hip-hop,
any sort of genre of music--

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RandB--

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there's always
a unique clothing style.

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A unique approach to fashion
that goes with that.

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In terms of how hip-hop
and urban hip-hop

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and fashion and music
have fused together to be
a cultural influence,

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I think one has to look back

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and start with someone
like Little Richard.

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Little Richard, to me,
was an extravagant,

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outlandish black version
of Liberace

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without the sequins.

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Little Richard was,
and is still,

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an iconic symbol of freedom.

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Music can make you feel free,

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and watching a performer,

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and what he says in his lyrics,

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can make you feel free

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and give you a sense
of your freedom.

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Considering all
that African-Americans

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have experienced

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in American society over time,

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in spite of that,

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you know, this sense that
if you look good, you feel good,

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is something that I think speaks
to why fashion and style

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has been so significant
over the course of time.

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This is the Bronx in New York.

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1 1/2 million people
live in this borough,

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equal to the population
of Houston or Washington

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or San Diego.

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It's the home
of the New York Yankees,

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the Bronx Zoo,
and the Grand Concourse.

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It has also become
the arson capital of the world.

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my sister Nell

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began to swell

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I'll be paying still

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The streets are where
everything happens.

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It's where you can go and stake
out a piece of who you are.

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In the '70s in the South Bronx,

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everything was burning.

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I particularly
lived in a building

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where I was the only tenant--

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my parents
were the only tenants--

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in a building
that held 50 apartments.

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We had no heat,
we had no hot water,

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there were killings
up the ying-yang.

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Police brutality
was worse than it is now.

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That's where gangs began.

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They tried to take over
one of my division,

201
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but they didn't quite make it
and we killed two of their guys.

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They tried to burn down my...

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We go, man,
and we rumble, we fight--

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whatever we do, our boys that,
you know, get hurt, whatever,

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we pick them up
and we keep going,

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and that's it.

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When we get home, man,

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whatever colors
we've got or whatever,

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you know, we just take them,
we throw them up on the pole,

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and see which one
of their members

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is bad enough to climb up there
to try to get them.

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It was extremely important
on how you dressed.

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So you must, at all times,

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have black jeans--

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at the time they were Lees--

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and motorcycle jackets

217
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and, on top
of the motorcycle jackets

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were denim jackets--

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cut sleeves
is what they called them.

220
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Our conquered enemies.

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Those are our conquered
enemies right there.

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Enchantres Bronx,
Royal Javelins,
and Latin Eagles.

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The art of customizing--

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hip-hop, for the most part, got
that from the so-called gangs,

225
00:10:02,340 --> 00:10:04,516
or street families,
without a doubt.

226
00:10:04,560 --> 00:10:07,824
I actually cut each
of these letters out myself,

227
00:10:07,868 --> 00:10:10,087
put it on, and you have,
of course, what's--

228
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these are top and bottom rockers

229
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and a center patch.

230
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And all these conchos
and doodads that I put on,

231
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these laces and these beads,

232
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this mink fur
is all added on,

233
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and this was
the classic outlaw look

234
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back then for the street gangs.

235
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This is handmade.

236
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- He made this himself.
- Yes.

237
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There are stitches here with
cowhide that he made.

238
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The patches--
you sew them on yourselves.

239
00:10:39,029 --> 00:10:40,074
Yeah.

240
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This all began with that movie,

241
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Easy Rider.

242
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A lot of people won't admit it,
but it is the truth.

243
00:10:47,951 --> 00:10:50,171
You know, people saw that--

244
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that gave you the sense of,
"Outlaw, hmm."

245
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Most of the guys here
are dressed like warriors.

246
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Uh-huh.

247
00:11:00,834 --> 00:11:03,010
And I hear you talking
about your warlords

248
00:11:03,053 --> 00:11:04,054
and your war council.

249
00:11:04,098 --> 00:11:06,404
Who's the enemy?

250
00:11:06,448 --> 00:11:07,971
The establishment.

251
00:11:08,015 --> 00:11:08,972
Right on. There it is.

252
00:11:12,976 --> 00:11:14,804
The enemy around the Bronx now

253
00:11:14,848 --> 00:11:16,980
at this very moment
is the policemen.

254
00:11:17,024 --> 00:11:18,895
Yes, this is
a warrior thing.

255
00:11:18,939 --> 00:11:21,637
Yes, it is, and we're here to
defend our brothers and sisters

256
00:11:21,681 --> 00:11:24,335
against people like them.
They're very racist, man.

257
00:11:24,379 --> 00:11:26,990
If you're gonna communicate,
communicate, man.

258
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And if you're gonna strike at
us, we're gonna strike back.

259
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When the Bronx was burning,

260
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gangs were rumbling.

261
00:11:36,608 --> 00:11:38,132
I mean rumbling hard.

262
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One of the guys
from the Ghetto Brothers

263
00:11:39,873 --> 00:11:41,570
who was a peacemaker

264
00:11:41,613 --> 00:11:42,963
named Black Benjy,

265
00:11:43,006 --> 00:11:45,530
he went out there to make peace,

266
00:11:45,574 --> 00:11:48,925
and another club--
a member of another club

267
00:11:48,969 --> 00:11:50,710
jumped out and said,
"Peace my ass.

268
00:11:50,753 --> 00:11:53,713
Peace shit."
And hit him with a bat,

269
00:11:53,756 --> 00:11:55,932
and then they just continued to
hit him until they killed him.

270
00:11:55,976 --> 00:12:00,632
Cornell Benjamin, also known
in the streets as Black Benjy,

271
00:12:00,676 --> 00:12:03,070
was ambassador
for the Ghetto Brothers.

272
00:12:03,113 --> 00:12:05,768
He was beaten to death
when he tried to intervene

273
00:12:05,812 --> 00:12:07,596
between two other gangs.

274
00:12:07,639 --> 00:12:09,206
Instead of retaliating,

275
00:12:09,250 --> 00:12:10,642
the Ghetto Brothers
convened a peace meeting

276
00:12:10,686 --> 00:12:12,253
of all the gangs
in the South Bronx

277
00:12:12,296 --> 00:12:14,037
at the boy's club on Hoe Avenue.

278
00:12:14,081 --> 00:12:15,996
Even though we had colors,
we were a gang,

279
00:12:16,039 --> 00:12:17,824
we'd never look
for trouble, man.

280
00:12:17,867 --> 00:12:19,521
I could understand
if they beat up Benjy,

281
00:12:19,564 --> 00:12:21,349
but killing him
is another thing.

282
00:12:21,392 --> 00:12:23,090
You took away one
of our brothers' lives, man.

283
00:12:23,133 --> 00:12:25,483
The thing is,
we're not a gang anymore.

284
00:12:25,527 --> 00:12:27,529
Peace!

285
00:12:27,572 --> 00:12:28,965
- I'm ready.
- Right on.

286
00:12:30,445 --> 00:12:32,229
They made a truce,

287
00:12:32,273 --> 00:12:34,579
and the truce
worked for a while.

288
00:12:34,623 --> 00:12:37,626
And so the whole
mentality changed

289
00:12:37,669 --> 00:12:40,063
along with the atmosphere.

290
00:12:40,107 --> 00:12:42,936
Instead of the wars
that we used to have,

291
00:12:42,979 --> 00:12:44,285
you know, club to club,

292
00:12:44,328 --> 00:12:45,852
it was, "I battle you."

293
00:12:45,895 --> 00:12:47,810
People would battle
with their mouth.

294
00:12:47,854 --> 00:12:50,247
Right there on the spot,
you had to spit.

295
00:12:50,291 --> 00:12:51,466


296
00:12:51,509 --> 00:12:52,815


297
00:12:52,859 --> 00:12:54,077


298
00:12:54,121 --> 00:12:55,252


299
00:12:55,296 --> 00:12:57,689

the highest degree

300
00:12:57,733 --> 00:12:59,866

than Rick Barry

301
00:12:59,909 --> 00:13:02,738

Like all the pretty girls

302
00:13:02,782 --> 00:13:05,567

like Earl the Pearl

303
00:13:05,610 --> 00:13:06,568


304
00:13:06,611 --> 00:13:08,004


305
00:13:08,048 --> 00:13:09,223

on the board, man

306
00:13:09,266 --> 00:13:11,051


307
00:13:14,750 --> 00:13:18,232
All these crews
kept the fly style

308
00:13:18,275 --> 00:13:21,322
of, like, putting
the name of their crew

309
00:13:21,365 --> 00:13:23,237
on their sweatshirt now.

310
00:13:23,280 --> 00:13:25,456
You know, it wasn't
on a Lee jacket.

311
00:13:25,500 --> 00:13:28,329
But now they were more refined.
They were clean.

312
00:13:28,372 --> 00:13:31,723
Some of the beefs were now
settled on the dance floor,

313
00:13:31,767 --> 00:13:34,422
in the train yards,
on the microphone,

314
00:13:34,465 --> 00:13:36,641
on the turntables.

315
00:13:36,685 --> 00:13:39,253
To hear the scratching,
to hear the music,

316
00:13:39,296 --> 00:13:40,602
and to dance--

317
00:13:40,645 --> 00:13:43,039
a music that we
had never heard of.

318
00:13:43,083 --> 00:13:46,216
A music that described us--

319
00:13:46,260 --> 00:13:47,827
described our struggle.

320
00:13:47,870 --> 00:13:51,221
You couldn't help
but have to conform,

321
00:13:51,265 --> 00:13:53,354
for lack of a word,

322
00:13:53,397 --> 00:13:56,096
to the trend that was coming.

323
00:13:56,139 --> 00:13:58,272
Which was?

324
00:13:58,315 --> 00:13:59,882
Rap.

325
00:14:05,279 --> 00:14:06,889
I was in awe.

326
00:14:06,933 --> 00:14:09,152
I lost my mind the first time
I went to the Fever

327
00:14:09,196 --> 00:14:11,763
to hear these rappers
and to hear these battles

328
00:14:11,807 --> 00:14:14,331
between Busy Bee and Kool Moe D,

329
00:14:14,375 --> 00:14:16,072
Grandmaster Caz--

330
00:14:16,116 --> 00:14:17,291
you know, up until that point,

331
00:14:17,334 --> 00:14:18,422
you had to use your imagination

332
00:14:18,466 --> 00:14:19,771
or whoever got the tape,

333
00:14:19,815 --> 00:14:21,251
to kind of tell you
how it was.

334
00:14:21,295 --> 00:14:22,992
I remember back
in the back park,

335
00:14:23,036 --> 00:14:24,298
you had Melle Mel,

336
00:14:24,341 --> 00:14:26,430
and you'd have KRS-One.

337
00:14:26,474 --> 00:14:28,258
You had them just back there
just jamming.

338
00:14:28,302 --> 00:14:33,002
To me, it was just a natural
party at the park.

339
00:14:33,046 --> 00:14:36,179
We didn't really know hip-hop
was getting that big.

340
00:14:36,223 --> 00:14:38,573
You know, and even back then,
it was all about fashion.

341
00:14:38,616 --> 00:14:41,489
Even the outfits
that Melle Mel would wear--

342
00:14:41,532 --> 00:14:43,534
it was outrageous at that time,

343
00:14:43,578 --> 00:14:45,493
but it was like,
"Oh, he's a superstar."

344
00:14:45,536 --> 00:14:48,757
"Oh," you know, "he's a rapper."
So that's what they do.

345
00:14:48,800 --> 00:14:53,066
You know, so he had a pass
to wear all those crazy jackets
and the cowboy boots.

346
00:14:53,109 --> 00:14:55,938


347
00:14:55,982 --> 00:14:58,636

and I get wild when I--

348
00:14:58,680 --> 00:15:02,118
Back in
the days, if you find
any old Coldcrush flyers,

349
00:15:02,162 --> 00:15:05,513
you will see that those cats
used to dress up.

350
00:15:05,556 --> 00:15:08,995
They would get suited
for a lot of their events.

351
00:15:09,038 --> 00:15:12,694
I mean, Armani suits, you know?

352
00:15:12,737 --> 00:15:16,959
Gaiters and mink coats
dripping to the floor.

353
00:15:17,003 --> 00:15:18,569
However, though,

354
00:15:18,613 --> 00:15:20,920
because of hip-hop
being a new form of music

355
00:15:20,963 --> 00:15:23,096
and something
that the youth catered to,

356
00:15:23,139 --> 00:15:25,750
basically everybody that was
accustomed to wearing,

357
00:15:25,794 --> 00:15:27,274
you know, suits onstage

358
00:15:27,317 --> 00:15:28,928
just started, you know,
dumbing it down

359
00:15:28,971 --> 00:15:31,234
to just keeping it
just straight B-boy.

360
00:15:39,590 --> 00:15:42,985
The majority of hip-hop artists
really just dressed B-boy style,

361
00:15:43,029 --> 00:15:44,465
where you've got on the Lees

362
00:15:44,508 --> 00:15:48,121
and you've got on your PUMAs

363
00:15:48,164 --> 00:15:50,340
and a BVD tank top,

364
00:15:50,384 --> 00:15:52,952
you know,
with your Cazals and Kangols.

365
00:15:52,995 --> 00:15:55,780
It was all part
of the hip-hop fashion.

366
00:15:58,044 --> 00:16:01,961
Hip-hop fashion was kind of
derived through the music,

367
00:16:02,004 --> 00:16:06,443
and it was kind of a "We're
not gonna follow the rules"

368
00:16:06,487 --> 00:16:09,359
mentality, both in rap music
and in fashion.

369
00:16:14,538 --> 00:16:16,976
-
-

370
00:16:17,019 --> 00:16:19,282
-
-

371
00:16:19,326 --> 00:16:21,806
-
-

372
00:16:21,850 --> 00:16:24,200


373
00:16:24,244 --> 00:16:26,986

A friend of mine

374
00:16:27,029 --> 00:16:29,684
I remember,
in terms of making a statement

375
00:16:29,727 --> 00:16:31,512
and just really influencing me,

376
00:16:31,555 --> 00:16:34,471
seeing Run-DMC onstage.

377
00:16:34,515 --> 00:16:35,951


378
00:16:35,995 --> 00:16:37,300


379
00:16:37,344 --> 00:16:38,606


380
00:16:38,649 --> 00:16:39,868


381
00:16:39,911 --> 00:16:41,130
With their hats,

382
00:16:41,174 --> 00:16:42,131
their shelltoes,

383
00:16:42,175 --> 00:16:44,351
their leather pants,

384
00:16:44,394 --> 00:16:46,048
and bottom line, you were
always taught in school,

385
00:16:46,092 --> 00:16:49,051
"dress for success"
meant something else.

386
00:16:49,095 --> 00:16:52,359
And here they were breaking
all the rules and winning.

387
00:16:52,402 --> 00:16:54,143
And I just remember
that change in my life,

388
00:16:54,187 --> 00:16:55,536
and the sense of,

389
00:16:55,579 --> 00:16:57,451
"Everything I've been taught"--

390
00:16:57,494 --> 00:17:01,411
was a farce to me
from that point.

391
00:17:01,455 --> 00:17:04,849
What we wear onstage is just
what all the youth wear.

392
00:17:04,893 --> 00:17:07,200
That's what, you know--
that's what all our fans wear.

393
00:17:07,243 --> 00:17:09,071
So dressing this way
lets them know,

394
00:17:09,115 --> 00:17:10,507
"Oh, he's just like me."

395
00:17:17,775 --> 00:17:20,082
Being in New York,
where there's, you know,

396
00:17:20,126 --> 00:17:23,216
so many people walking past each
other on the street every day,

397
00:17:23,259 --> 00:17:27,002
you get a chance to--
it's like a runway.
You know what I mean?

398
00:17:27,046 --> 00:17:28,482
All the streets
were like runways

399
00:17:28,525 --> 00:17:31,441
for different clothing brands.

400
00:17:31,485 --> 00:17:34,792
There was always
all sorts of different flavors
in the hood.

401
00:17:34,836 --> 00:17:40,189
There wasn't one
definitive sort of style.

402
00:17:40,233 --> 00:17:41,582
A guy from Brooklyn

403
00:17:41,625 --> 00:17:43,279
would have on Clarks,

404
00:17:43,323 --> 00:17:44,802
sharkskins,

405
00:17:44,846 --> 00:17:46,978
Cazal glasses
with no lens in it,

406
00:17:47,022 --> 00:17:49,764
and a Kangol crease
like I don't know what.

407
00:17:49,807 --> 00:17:52,288
That was a Brooklyn cat.

408
00:17:52,332 --> 00:17:53,594
He didn't have to say anything.

409
00:17:53,637 --> 00:17:55,596
You knew he was from Brooklyn.

410
00:17:55,639 --> 00:17:59,382
A guy from Harlem would have on,
let's say, a velour sweat suit,

411
00:17:59,426 --> 00:18:03,082
and whatever brand
the sweat suit was from,

412
00:18:03,125 --> 00:18:05,258
he would have
the sneaker to match.

413
00:18:05,301 --> 00:18:07,086
Same with the Bronx.

414
00:18:07,129 --> 00:18:11,307
The Bronx was a mix
of Harlem and Brooklyn together.

415
00:18:11,351 --> 00:18:14,223
Queens--
Queens had their own flow too.

416
00:18:18,532 --> 00:18:22,144
I used to go uptown to Apollo--
Amateur Night at the Apollo.

417
00:18:22,188 --> 00:18:24,494
You could be in that venue
and you would know,

418
00:18:24,538 --> 00:18:26,801
"That person's from Harlem.

419
00:18:26,844 --> 00:18:28,890
That person's from Queens."

420
00:18:28,933 --> 00:18:30,152
You know, you would just know

421
00:18:30,196 --> 00:18:31,458
by the way they were dressed.

422
00:18:31,501 --> 00:18:32,981
And we were fresh.

423
00:18:36,202 --> 00:18:37,507
We were dipped.

424
00:18:37,551 --> 00:18:41,468
Just chilling, fresh--
fresh dipped.

425
00:18:41,511 --> 00:18:43,165
No money.

426
00:18:43,209 --> 00:18:44,862
No money in the pocket.

427
00:18:44,906 --> 00:18:46,777
Might have had 50� between us.

428
00:18:48,823 --> 00:18:50,912
The insecurity
of not having anything--

429
00:18:50,955 --> 00:18:53,567
it's the only time that you
can showcase that you do.

430
00:18:53,610 --> 00:18:55,830
Like, if you go home,
you got roaches, and every--

431
00:18:55,873 --> 00:18:58,180
ten people living
in an apartment.

432
00:18:58,224 --> 00:19:01,575
You know, the only way
that you can kind of show

433
00:19:01,618 --> 00:19:02,837
that you have anything

434
00:19:02,880 --> 00:19:04,752
and feel some kind of a status

435
00:19:04,795 --> 00:19:06,667
is, you know,
what you have on your body.

436
00:19:06,710 --> 00:19:08,277
What you have on your body
is a reflection

437
00:19:08,321 --> 00:19:10,279
of how you're
economically doing.

438
00:19:10,323 --> 00:19:11,976
You know, as a young man,

439
00:19:12,020 --> 00:19:13,195
if you got fresh, crispy gear,

440
00:19:13,239 --> 00:19:14,805
then you're getting money.

441
00:19:14,849 --> 00:19:17,025
If you dirty,
you're not getting money.

442
00:19:17,068 --> 00:19:18,592
Everyone prefers to be clean.

443
00:19:18,635 --> 00:19:21,290
Everyone prefers to have,
you know,

444
00:19:21,334 --> 00:19:23,249
different variations
of clothing.

445
00:19:23,292 --> 00:19:26,382
So it's just a status symbol
based on insecurity.

446
00:19:38,612 --> 00:19:40,744
Right now, we are
standing on the iconic

447
00:19:40,788 --> 00:19:42,442
Delancey and Orchard Street,

448
00:19:42,485 --> 00:19:45,227
a historic location
that many of us used to shop at

449
00:19:45,271 --> 00:19:46,272
back in the 1970s.

450
00:19:48,752 --> 00:19:50,624
As a documentary photographer
way back then,

451
00:19:50,667 --> 00:19:53,888
I actually started taking some
of my very first photographs

452
00:19:53,931 --> 00:19:55,324
right here on this block here.

453
00:19:58,284 --> 00:20:00,242
It's interpreted
around the world

454
00:20:00,286 --> 00:20:01,635
as just being fly--

455
00:20:01,678 --> 00:20:03,593
being unique,
being special.

456
00:20:03,637 --> 00:20:07,293
You know, for many, they
just see it as a strong style.

457
00:20:09,817 --> 00:20:12,298
What I see is pride and dignity.

458
00:20:12,341 --> 00:20:14,735
Individually, they took great
pride in the way they dressed

459
00:20:14,778 --> 00:20:16,302
and the way they
carried themselves.

460
00:20:16,345 --> 00:20:18,086
I wanted the world to see

461
00:20:18,129 --> 00:20:19,870
something unlike
they were seeing before.

462
00:20:19,914 --> 00:20:21,916
That despite people's condition,

463
00:20:21,959 --> 00:20:24,614
they're still able to maintain
a great degree of integrity,

464
00:20:24,658 --> 00:20:26,355
and it's shown by people dress

465
00:20:26,399 --> 00:20:28,662
and the pride they take
in having clean sneakers on,

466
00:20:28,705 --> 00:20:31,621
having fresh gear on
that was color-coordinated.

467
00:20:31,665 --> 00:20:32,796
That made individuals feel good,

468
00:20:32,840 --> 00:20:34,145
and it helped to resonate

469
00:20:34,189 --> 00:20:35,538
and inspire people globally

470
00:20:35,582 --> 00:20:38,280
to even want to dress that way.

471
00:20:38,324 --> 00:20:41,936
You couldn't get
a discount anywhere

472
00:20:41,979 --> 00:20:44,634
except on the Lower East Side.

473
00:20:44,678 --> 00:20:46,680
This was like one
big department store

474
00:20:46,723 --> 00:20:50,727
but stretched down
seven, eight blocks.

475
00:20:50,771 --> 00:20:53,513
The one thing that they had

476
00:20:53,556 --> 00:20:56,037
that they could show off
to the world

477
00:20:56,080 --> 00:20:58,735
was their clothing.
So it was very important--

478
00:20:58,779 --> 00:21:00,650
they may not have had
the best apartment,

479
00:21:00,694 --> 00:21:02,870
they may not have had
the best car,

480
00:21:02,913 --> 00:21:04,350
but they had the best clothing,

481
00:21:04,393 --> 00:21:06,090
and it was very
important to them,

482
00:21:06,134 --> 00:21:07,396
because when they put that suit

483
00:21:07,440 --> 00:21:09,093
or that leather jacket on,

484
00:21:09,137 --> 00:21:12,227
or the mink jacket on,
or whatever it was,

485
00:21:12,271 --> 00:21:13,707
they were king.

486
00:21:35,119 --> 00:21:36,730
For a lot of people

487
00:21:36,773 --> 00:21:39,167
who, you know,
may grow up in the projects

488
00:21:39,210 --> 00:21:40,734
or whatever,
they want to stand out.

489
00:21:40,777 --> 00:21:44,215
You know?
So they wear loud colors.

490
00:21:44,259 --> 00:21:46,000
I think the colors in hip-hop

491
00:21:46,043 --> 00:21:47,915
came from graffiti.

492
00:21:47,958 --> 00:21:51,701
Whatever the cans of paint--
what colors were available

493
00:21:51,745 --> 00:21:54,661
for painting,
those became the cool colors.

494
00:21:54,704 --> 00:21:56,837
You did your own thing.
You know, you could

495
00:21:56,880 --> 00:21:59,492
paint your own design
on the back of your jean jacket.

496
00:21:59,535 --> 00:22:01,711
You know, jean jackets were
the first canvas for hip-hop.

497
00:22:03,365 --> 00:22:05,367
What was really, really popular

498
00:22:05,411 --> 00:22:08,892
was doing names
on the side of your jeans,

499
00:22:08,936 --> 00:22:10,764
and that's what
I was doing a lot of.

500
00:22:10,807 --> 00:22:13,027
People paid me
to put their names

501
00:22:13,070 --> 00:22:15,029
on the side of their jeans.

502
00:22:17,510 --> 00:22:18,815


503
00:22:18,859 --> 00:22:20,121


504
00:22:20,164 --> 00:22:21,601


505
00:22:21,644 --> 00:22:23,167


506
00:22:23,211 --> 00:22:24,908

can't stand around

507
00:22:24,952 --> 00:22:26,040


508
00:22:26,083 --> 00:22:27,084


509
00:22:27,128 --> 00:22:28,303


510
00:22:28,347 --> 00:22:29,391


511
00:22:29,435 --> 00:22:31,262


512
00:22:31,306 --> 00:22:34,135

I just had to make

513
00:22:34,178 --> 00:22:39,967
You know, I remember coming
across a Black Beatmagazine

514
00:22:40,010 --> 00:22:43,753
with LL Cool J on the cover,

515
00:22:43,797 --> 00:22:45,407
and inside, there was an article

516
00:22:45,451 --> 00:22:47,757
about his sweatshirt
that he was wearing,

517
00:22:47,801 --> 00:22:51,848
which was, like, an airbrushed
portrait of himself,
like, as a B-boy.

518
00:22:51,892 --> 00:22:56,331
And it was painted
by a guy named King Phade
from the Shirt Kings.

519
00:22:56,375 --> 00:23:00,553
This is the shirt here that
gave the Shirt Kings notoriety.

520
00:23:00,596 --> 00:23:05,209
When LL Cool J, who's a major,
major, major star,

521
00:23:05,253 --> 00:23:09,039
you know, wore this shirt
in every photo shoot
that you could imagine,

522
00:23:09,083 --> 00:23:13,783
it took what we were doing
in Southside Jamaica, Queens,
all around the world.

523
00:23:13,827 --> 00:23:17,047
It made the world
notice who we were.

524
00:23:17,091 --> 00:23:18,832
What Shirt Kings were about

525
00:23:18,875 --> 00:23:21,530
were drawing things that we saw,

526
00:23:21,574 --> 00:23:24,228
you know, in our community.

527
00:23:24,272 --> 00:23:27,014
We basically remixed them.

528
00:23:27,057 --> 00:23:29,320
We turned them into a joke,

529
00:23:29,364 --> 00:23:32,585
because this became our reality.

530
00:23:32,628 --> 00:23:33,847
You know.

531
00:23:33,890 --> 00:23:37,285
So we put Mickey on crack.

532
00:23:37,328 --> 00:23:38,982
When times are bad,

533
00:23:39,026 --> 00:23:43,465
a lot of people tend
to gravitate towards art.

534
00:23:43,509 --> 00:23:46,599
Art takes your mind
to another place.

535
00:23:46,642 --> 00:23:49,297
You know.
Shirt Kings--

536
00:23:49,340 --> 00:23:51,081
it allowed me

537
00:23:51,125 --> 00:23:55,521
to not
become something else.

538
00:23:59,133 --> 00:24:01,396
Shirt Kings and Dapper Dan

539
00:24:01,440 --> 00:24:04,791
took your--whatever--
what we were thinking
in our imaginations,

540
00:24:04,834 --> 00:24:07,010
they put it into reality.

541
00:24:07,054 --> 00:24:09,665
The belt that I'm wearing here,
you know,

542
00:24:09,709 --> 00:24:14,104
this style stuff Dapper Dan was
putting together on your shoe,

543
00:24:14,148 --> 00:24:17,064
Dapper Dan was putting together
on your baseball cap.

544
00:24:17,107 --> 00:24:19,588
You know, the LV
was on your baseball cap,

545
00:24:19,632 --> 00:24:22,765
on your pouch
that hung from your neck.

546
00:24:22,809 --> 00:24:24,506
You know, Dapper Dan
would use that

547
00:24:24,550 --> 00:24:26,334
where Louis Vuitton wouldn't.

548
00:24:26,377 --> 00:24:28,379
People who could afford it
were going to Dap

549
00:24:28,423 --> 00:24:31,731
instead of Louis.
You know what I'm saying?

550
00:24:31,774 --> 00:24:33,689
You might walk into Louis
Vuitton and be looked down at,

551
00:24:33,733 --> 00:24:35,517
especially in the 1980s,

552
00:24:35,561 --> 00:24:37,650
so you go up to Dap,
you feel at home,

553
00:24:37,693 --> 00:24:39,826
and he's gonna cater to your
needs and take care of you.

554
00:24:42,568 --> 00:24:45,832
I believe urban luxury fashion
started with Dapper Dan

555
00:24:45,875 --> 00:24:48,443
and people wanting to aspire

556
00:24:48,487 --> 00:24:50,097
to wear these luxury brands.

557
00:24:50,140 --> 00:24:52,882
They were unattainable
at the time.

558
00:24:52,926 --> 00:24:55,929
And he figured out a way
to make it attainable.

559
00:24:55,972 --> 00:25:00,150
What Dan did was basically do
what we did with music.

560
00:25:00,194 --> 00:25:02,675
You know, we sampled songs,

561
00:25:02,718 --> 00:25:05,460
looped them,
and made it our own.

562
00:25:05,504 --> 00:25:07,636
He figured out a way
to do it in clothing.

563
00:25:07,680 --> 00:25:09,986
Hey, let me tell him a story.
30 years ago--

564
00:25:10,030 --> 00:25:12,380
30 years ago,
this whole block

565
00:25:12,423 --> 00:25:14,687
was full of Bentleys,
Rolls-Royces,

566
00:25:14,730 --> 00:25:16,732
cars you never
even heard of,

567
00:25:16,776 --> 00:25:18,560
to come see this man,

568
00:25:18,604 --> 00:25:19,779
because he was the first one

569
00:25:19,822 --> 00:25:21,476
taking designer clothes--

570
00:25:21,520 --> 00:25:23,304
Gucci, Louis Vuitton--

571
00:25:23,347 --> 00:25:25,088
and making suits
and stuff out of it.

572
00:25:25,132 --> 00:25:27,264
Took the leather
and did it--made pants.

573
00:25:27,308 --> 00:25:28,831
Everybody coming
to get $1,000 pants.

574
00:25:28,875 --> 00:25:30,572
I couldn't believe it.
I never bought a pair.

575
00:25:30,616 --> 00:25:32,226
I couldn't afford
no $1,000 pants.

576
00:25:32,269 --> 00:25:34,402
But this is the first
man that did this.

577
00:25:36,447 --> 00:25:38,798
The only way for us
to make it in this business,

578
00:25:38,841 --> 00:25:40,974
which I realized early on,

579
00:25:41,017 --> 00:25:43,585
was, when you got raw goods,

580
00:25:43,629 --> 00:25:46,457
that raw goods--
if I have a roll of fabric,

581
00:25:46,501 --> 00:25:48,808
that fabric is anything
I want it to be.

582
00:25:50,723 --> 00:25:54,030
Anything that a designer
didn't have,

583
00:25:54,074 --> 00:25:56,337
I would embellish it for them.

584
00:25:56,380 --> 00:25:58,078
You know?

585
00:25:58,121 --> 00:26:00,950
I blackenized it.
You know?

586
00:26:00,994 --> 00:26:03,910
I made it so that
it'll look good on us.

587
00:26:05,955 --> 00:26:08,001
I took it where they
would never take it.

588
00:26:08,044 --> 00:26:10,438
Louis Vuitton wasn't even making
clothes like it at the time,

589
00:26:10,481 --> 00:26:12,179
you know?

590
00:26:12,222 --> 00:26:15,138
I didn't even realize
the impact that it was having,

591
00:26:15,182 --> 00:26:16,836
because I just wanted
to serve my community.

592
00:26:16,879 --> 00:26:19,055
I just wanted
to serve the black--

593
00:26:19,099 --> 00:26:21,928
I would be satisfied just
with the neighborhood I was in.

594
00:26:21,971 --> 00:26:24,452
You know what I mean?
Getting the respect from them.

595
00:26:26,367 --> 00:26:29,283
Back in the day,
it was about high-end brands.

596
00:26:29,326 --> 00:26:31,198
If it wasn't
the actual high-end brand,

597
00:26:31,241 --> 00:26:32,982
it was Dapper Dan.

598
00:26:36,203 --> 00:26:37,726
I got the seats done--

599
00:26:37,770 --> 00:26:40,511
the whole upholstery in the--
inside my car

600
00:26:40,555 --> 00:26:42,949
done black and red Gucci.

601
00:26:42,992 --> 00:26:45,516
I kind of had him make me
a shearling once

602
00:26:45,560 --> 00:26:47,736
with the extra-deep pockets,

603
00:26:47,780 --> 00:26:50,130
just in case I needed to
have guns in them--nah.

604
00:26:50,173 --> 00:26:52,698
But that's what--you know, you
could do those kind of things.

605
00:26:52,741 --> 00:26:54,525
It cost 2 grand.
I thought I was the man.

606
00:26:57,267 --> 00:26:59,705
I was open 24 hours a day
for eight years.

607
00:26:59,748 --> 00:27:01,707
We might take a little
three-hour break,

608
00:27:01,750 --> 00:27:04,666
and for the rappers,
I would have the gate down here,

609
00:27:04,710 --> 00:27:06,581
so all they'd have to do
is pull the--

610
00:27:06,625 --> 00:27:08,278
rappers or the hustlers
come through,

611
00:27:08,322 --> 00:27:10,106
all they'd have to do
is pull the gate up and roll in.

612
00:27:10,150 --> 00:27:12,456
And my policy was
to run to the gate.

613
00:27:15,808 --> 00:27:17,766
Eric B. and Rakim,

614
00:27:17,810 --> 00:27:18,898
Big Daddy Kane,

615
00:27:18,941 --> 00:27:20,639
Biz Markie,

616
00:27:20,682 --> 00:27:22,466
Salt-N-Pepa,

617
00:27:22,510 --> 00:27:24,904
Guy, Teddy Riley--

618
00:27:24,947 --> 00:27:26,862
Hey, Teddy, I ain't mad at you.
I still got a check

619
00:27:26,906 --> 00:27:28,821
for $700 that bounced.

620
00:27:34,478 --> 00:27:36,698
What put the nail
in the coffin is,

621
00:27:36,742 --> 00:27:38,700
first they raided me.

622
00:27:38,744 --> 00:27:41,442
Raided me broke.
Part two was--

623
00:27:41,485 --> 00:27:43,618
blank out anything I do
on Yo! MTV,

624
00:27:43,662 --> 00:27:47,622
and you know, Yo! MTV
gave birth to the rap game.

625
00:27:47,666 --> 00:27:49,624
You know?
That was their coverage.

626
00:27:52,148 --> 00:27:54,411
He should have came out
with a Dapper Dan brand.

627
00:27:54,455 --> 00:27:55,717
He definitely could have if he--

628
00:27:55,761 --> 00:27:58,415
I think if he knew the business.

629
00:27:58,459 --> 00:28:01,375
Dapper Dan was Tom Ford
before Tom Ford.

630
00:28:01,418 --> 00:28:04,160
He should have been hired
instead of shut down.

631
00:28:04,204 --> 00:28:06,206
He really should have
been hired as a designer

632
00:28:06,249 --> 00:28:09,165
for one of those elite
clothes brands back then,

633
00:28:09,209 --> 00:28:12,778
because he had the foresight
to do back then

634
00:28:12,821 --> 00:28:14,257
what they just started doing

635
00:28:14,301 --> 00:28:16,433
maybe ten years,
five years after him.

636
00:28:19,480 --> 00:28:22,004


637
00:28:22,048 --> 00:28:23,614


638
00:28:23,658 --> 00:28:26,356

coliseum floors

639
00:28:26,400 --> 00:28:29,142

at Live Aid

640
00:28:29,185 --> 00:28:32,275

and the poor got paid

641
00:28:32,319 --> 00:28:34,669

I did speak

642
00:28:34,713 --> 00:28:37,367

but I'm not a sneak

643
00:28:37,411 --> 00:28:40,109

of a foreign land

644
00:28:40,153 --> 00:28:42,764

I cold took command

645
00:28:42,808 --> 00:28:45,767

close as can be

646
00:28:45,811 --> 00:28:48,117

my Adidas and me

647
00:28:48,161 --> 00:28:51,468

We're down forever

648
00:28:51,512 --> 00:28:53,732

when worn in bad weather

649
00:28:53,775 --> 00:28:56,604


650
00:28:56,647 --> 00:28:58,954
The most important thing
was sneakers,

651
00:28:58,998 --> 00:29:02,741
you know, because if you
had some wack sneakers,

652
00:29:02,784 --> 00:29:06,092
you just were--it was just
a difficult time, you know.

653
00:29:06,135 --> 00:29:09,748
A lot of stuff was
always built off, you know,
your shoe game.

654
00:29:09,791 --> 00:29:13,403
That's what was important.
You built your outfit
off your shoe game.

655
00:29:13,447 --> 00:29:15,884
This is what I like
to call sneaker heaven.

656
00:29:15,928 --> 00:29:17,799
I could wear a brand-new
pair of sneakers every day

657
00:29:17,843 --> 00:29:20,715
for 7 1/2 years.
That's a fact.

658
00:29:20,759 --> 00:29:24,806
When I was a kid, I asked
my mother for a pair
of sneakers one day,

659
00:29:24,850 --> 00:29:26,939
She bought me a sneaker
called the Mark 5.

660
00:29:26,982 --> 00:29:30,029
Nobody alive knows
what this shoe is.

661
00:29:30,072 --> 00:29:31,944
It was a Mark 5,
and I thought I was the shit.

662
00:29:31,987 --> 00:29:33,728
Like, I thought I was
the hottest guy in the world

663
00:29:33,772 --> 00:29:35,512
because my name
was on the shoe--

664
00:29:35,556 --> 00:29:38,167
my name is Mark--
and I went back to the block,

665
00:29:38,211 --> 00:29:40,300
and they laughed me off the
block, 'cause it was like

666
00:29:40,343 --> 00:29:44,391
a $10 favor shoe or one
of them crazy shoes,
and I got destroyed.

667
00:29:44,434 --> 00:29:46,697
When it comes to getting fresh,
when it comes to hip-hop,

668
00:29:46,741 --> 00:29:48,743
when it comes to anything, man,
getting fresh starts with your
feet first.

669
00:29:48,787 --> 00:29:50,136
I remember,
I went to Catholic school,

670
00:29:50,179 --> 00:29:52,138
so you had to wear
shoes every day,

671
00:29:52,181 --> 00:29:53,835
so me and my friend Zeke,

672
00:29:53,879 --> 00:29:55,271
we would fake sprain ankles

673
00:29:55,315 --> 00:29:57,404
so that we could
wear one sneaker--

674
00:29:57,447 --> 00:29:59,841
had the crutch and
then wear one shoe,

675
00:29:59,885 --> 00:30:01,800
just to show that we got
the newest Jordans,

676
00:30:01,843 --> 00:30:03,062
like, "Yeah, you see me--

677
00:30:03,105 --> 00:30:04,672
you see I got that Jordan on."

678
00:30:04,715 --> 00:30:06,369
Shoes that you could
get killed for too.

679
00:30:06,413 --> 00:30:09,808
There was one question
you never wanted to hear

680
00:30:09,851 --> 00:30:12,375
when somebody you didn't know
rolled up on you,

681
00:30:12,419 --> 00:30:15,639
and that was,
"What's your size?"

682
00:30:15,683 --> 00:30:18,686
They would go like this:
"Yo, what size you wear?"

683
00:30:18,729 --> 00:30:21,210
And if you were live,
you would say, "Your size.

684
00:30:21,254 --> 00:30:22,211
"Why?

685
00:30:22,255 --> 00:30:23,691
"Yeah, your size.

686
00:30:23,734 --> 00:30:25,214
Why you want to know?"

687
00:30:25,258 --> 00:30:26,476
If you were live.

688
00:30:26,520 --> 00:30:27,608
If you was a chump,

689
00:30:27,651 --> 00:30:29,262
and a sucka,

690
00:30:29,305 --> 00:30:30,872
you'd probably be quiet

691
00:30:30,916 --> 00:30:32,787
and probably get punched
in the face and get vicked.

692
00:30:38,575 --> 00:30:40,142
They would vick you
for your shoes

693
00:30:40,186 --> 00:30:41,970
and, yeah,
it wasn't a pretty sight.

694
00:30:42,014 --> 00:30:44,016
I actually--I did get robbed
on Simpson Street

695
00:30:44,059 --> 00:30:45,495
one time, yeah.

696
00:30:47,584 --> 00:30:48,629
I was just leaving the JewMan.

697
00:30:54,026 --> 00:30:56,376
And these cats
got the drop on me.

698
00:30:56,419 --> 00:30:58,030
I don't know what
I was thinking about

699
00:30:58,073 --> 00:30:59,553
going up to the Bronx by myself.

700
00:30:59,596 --> 00:31:02,121
I knew a kid up in the Bronx
who was like,

701
00:31:02,164 --> 00:31:05,559
"They'll sell these Air Force 1s
that you don't see in Manhattan.

702
00:31:05,602 --> 00:31:07,430
Let's go get those."

703
00:31:07,474 --> 00:31:09,519
So we go up to JewMan,

704
00:31:09,563 --> 00:31:12,609
cop the white and brown
Air Force 1s.

705
00:31:12,653 --> 00:31:15,090
After my mother gave me
my allowance,
begged my grandfather

706
00:31:15,134 --> 00:31:17,440
for an extra 20 cash
so I can go get
the shoe down at JewMan

707
00:31:17,484 --> 00:31:21,183
or whatever the case may be.
It was always that for me.
Always.

708
00:31:21,227 --> 00:31:24,273
You always wanted to be seen,
and you always wanted
everybody to know

709
00:31:24,317 --> 00:31:26,362
that you got that--
what we call swag now--

710
00:31:26,406 --> 00:31:28,277
you got that flava back then,

711
00:31:28,321 --> 00:31:30,584
or, you know, you're dipped,
you're fresh, you're the one.

712
00:31:30,627 --> 00:31:33,848
It was a competition just like
everything else in the hood.

713
00:31:33,892 --> 00:31:35,763
The way the whole
fat lace shit started

714
00:31:35,806 --> 00:31:37,504
was we used to take laces

715
00:31:37,547 --> 00:31:40,855
that came with the shoe,
like Pro-Keds or Converse,

716
00:31:40,899 --> 00:31:42,726
stretch the shit out of them,

717
00:31:42,770 --> 00:31:45,468
starch them
with starch,

718
00:31:45,512 --> 00:31:47,470
and iron them.
It was a ritual.

719
00:31:47,514 --> 00:31:48,732
It took, like, a half hour.

720
00:31:48,776 --> 00:31:50,517
Right?
To get your shit right.

721
00:31:50,560 --> 00:31:52,998
And then the way you
laced them in your shoes

722
00:31:53,041 --> 00:31:55,652
was a whole different
sort of science, you know?

723
00:31:55,696 --> 00:31:58,568
The manufacturers,
when they laced their laces,

724
00:31:58,612 --> 00:32:00,701
they go the other way--

725
00:32:00,744 --> 00:32:01,745
under and up.

726
00:32:01,789 --> 00:32:03,922
Us, we go up and under.

727
00:32:03,965 --> 00:32:06,968
And that's a very
clear way to tell

728
00:32:07,012 --> 00:32:11,146
who's hip, you know,
in terms of, like, street flava
on the hip-hop tip.

729
00:32:11,190 --> 00:32:13,148
I've been on the cover
of The Village Voice.

730
00:32:13,192 --> 00:32:15,846
Five-page article
based on sneakers.

731
00:32:15,890 --> 00:32:17,065
I would say this shoe collection

732
00:32:17,109 --> 00:32:20,112
is worth over $1/2 million.

733
00:32:20,155 --> 00:32:22,636

Here we go, yo

734
00:32:22,679 --> 00:32:24,725

so what's the scenario?

735
00:32:24,768 --> 00:32:26,988

Here we go, yo

736
00:32:27,032 --> 00:32:28,903

so what's the scenario?

737
00:32:28,947 --> 00:32:30,731
-
-

738
00:32:30,774 --> 00:32:32,515
-
-

739
00:32:32,559 --> 00:32:33,821

'cause Bo can't rap

740
00:32:33,864 --> 00:32:35,344


741
00:32:35,388 --> 00:32:36,737

is first up to bat

742
00:32:36,780 --> 00:32:38,391


743
00:32:38,434 --> 00:32:40,349
In the late '80s,

744
00:32:40,393 --> 00:32:42,003
growing up in New York,

745
00:32:42,047 --> 00:32:44,658
you know, kids were into
fashion, and hip-hop, obviously,

746
00:32:44,701 --> 00:32:46,660
influenced everything
that we did.

747
00:32:46,703 --> 00:32:48,618
But, you know, at that point,

748
00:32:48,662 --> 00:32:51,534
it basically meant
getting different,

749
00:32:51,578 --> 00:32:53,014
you know, designer labels,

750
00:32:53,058 --> 00:32:54,798
like a Polo
or something like that,

751
00:32:54,842 --> 00:32:59,412
and wearing it
in a particular way.

752
00:32:59,455 --> 00:33:01,849
You wasn't just a regular
black kid rocking Polo,

753
00:33:01,892 --> 00:33:05,461
but we saw those things like
New Balance, Members Only--

754
00:33:05,505 --> 00:33:07,289
if there was a nigga
in the hood rocking that,

755
00:33:07,333 --> 00:33:09,813
it's 'cause he
saw them rocking it

756
00:33:09,857 --> 00:33:12,077
and then made it his own style

757
00:33:12,120 --> 00:33:16,472
and brought it in the hood,
and then other folks
emulated that.

758
00:33:16,516 --> 00:33:20,955
For us, that's kind of
like a natural thing.

759
00:33:20,999 --> 00:33:23,436
I remember,
at the Taste of Chicago,

760
00:33:23,479 --> 00:33:25,003
when I first saw Reggie Know

761
00:33:25,046 --> 00:33:28,136
and he had, like,
the all-over print Polo

762
00:33:28,180 --> 00:33:31,618
with the camo pants, with
the Wallys, with the fedora.

763
00:33:31,661 --> 00:33:36,362
and, like, a Lazarus chain,
a gold chain, gold fronts.

764
00:33:36,405 --> 00:33:39,843
And I was still, like, sewing
Izods on my shirt and stuff.

765
00:33:39,887 --> 00:33:42,194
I remember just that moment
moved me so much

766
00:33:42,237 --> 00:33:45,197
and I just had to,
like, get my fresh up
to a whole nother level.

767
00:33:45,240 --> 00:33:48,113
I realized at that point,
we wasn't, you know--

768
00:33:48,156 --> 00:33:50,419
I wasn't in a suburb
in high school anymore.

769
00:33:53,248 --> 00:33:55,076
When I was in school--
I went to Brown

770
00:33:55,120 --> 00:33:57,078
and I had a stipend--
the first thing I would do

771
00:33:57,122 --> 00:34:00,647
was go to Yves Saint Laurent.
You know, I would, you know,

772
00:34:00,690 --> 00:34:03,345
take my stipend money
and go to Louis Vuitton

773
00:34:03,389 --> 00:34:05,304
or Gucci.

774
00:34:05,347 --> 00:34:08,046
You know, urban young people

775
00:34:08,089 --> 00:34:11,223
are always attracted to
or addicted to fashion

776
00:34:11,266 --> 00:34:12,963
because it is expression

777
00:34:13,007 --> 00:34:14,791
of aspiration,

778
00:34:14,835 --> 00:34:16,619
because you grow up in a world

779
00:34:16,663 --> 00:34:18,099
where fashion is so important,

780
00:34:18,143 --> 00:34:21,407
and a lot of people
who are in hip-hop

781
00:34:21,450 --> 00:34:23,278
have aspirations,

782
00:34:23,322 --> 00:34:26,194
and aspirational is,
"Can you go into that store

783
00:34:26,238 --> 00:34:29,154
and buy that brand?"

784
00:34:29,197 --> 00:34:31,460
When you think of Versace,

785
00:34:31,504 --> 00:34:33,288
Ralph Lauren,

786
00:34:33,332 --> 00:34:34,942
it seems like it's far away--

787
00:34:34,985 --> 00:34:36,639
it's a dream,

788
00:34:36,683 --> 00:34:39,120
and somewhere where you
would like to go.

789
00:34:39,164 --> 00:34:42,384
And those people could
care less about you--you know.

790
00:34:42,428 --> 00:34:46,301
But it seems like if I
can grab that and wear that,

791
00:34:46,345 --> 00:34:47,911
like, I'm living a fantasy.

792
00:34:47,955 --> 00:34:49,348


793
00:34:49,391 --> 00:34:50,479


794
00:34:50,523 --> 00:34:52,351


795
00:34:52,394 --> 00:34:53,613


796
00:34:53,656 --> 00:34:55,136


797
00:34:55,180 --> 00:34:56,442


798
00:34:56,485 --> 00:34:58,052


799
00:34:58,096 --> 00:35:00,402


800
00:35:00,446 --> 00:35:03,536
Lo Lifes originated from
the Marcus Garvey Village

801
00:35:03,579 --> 00:35:07,322
in Brownsville
and St. Johns and Utica Place
in Crown Heights, you know?

802
00:35:07,366 --> 00:35:11,500
We're two separate
boosting crews
or getting-fly crews, you know,

803
00:35:11,544 --> 00:35:14,895
that came together and created
a big brotherhood, you know,

804
00:35:14,938 --> 00:35:18,420
that influenced the world
of fashion and hip-hop abroad.

805
00:35:18,464 --> 00:35:21,858
A booster is somebody
who goes to any store,

806
00:35:21,902 --> 00:35:24,992
but in this case
expensive stores,

807
00:35:25,035 --> 00:35:27,212
and steals.

808
00:35:27,255 --> 00:35:30,258
And then, you know,
it might be a $600 jean,

809
00:35:30,302 --> 00:35:32,608
and you can buy it
for $100 from him.

810
00:35:32,652 --> 00:35:37,047
Boosting is anybody
who shoplifts.

811
00:35:37,091 --> 00:35:38,875
We were robbing
and stealing and all that--

812
00:35:38,919 --> 00:35:41,182
even each other.

813
00:35:41,226 --> 00:35:43,141
There were a lot of people
where, you know,

814
00:35:43,184 --> 00:35:45,186
rob your whole house, man,
for everything you had,

815
00:35:45,230 --> 00:35:47,710
and just the Polo. They're not
taking anything else.

816
00:35:49,973 --> 00:35:51,584
I remember taking the train--

817
00:35:51,627 --> 00:35:54,326
we'd take the train
to go rush B. Altman's--

818
00:35:54,369 --> 00:35:56,328
34th Street.

819
00:35:56,371 --> 00:35:58,721
Soon as the train doors open,

820
00:35:58,765 --> 00:36:00,680
everybody rushing
into the store,

821
00:36:00,723 --> 00:36:02,464
racing to get the stuff.

822
00:36:02,508 --> 00:36:04,901
People running into the street
carrying all these clothes,

823
00:36:04,945 --> 00:36:06,512
some clothes getting dropped,

824
00:36:06,555 --> 00:36:08,470
and you see superheroes
coming out of nowhere

825
00:36:08,514 --> 00:36:11,212
trying to help, you know,
and protect the store,

826
00:36:11,256 --> 00:36:13,171
and then we'd run back
to the train station

827
00:36:13,214 --> 00:36:15,521
and run onto the train tracks
and run to the next stop

828
00:36:15,564 --> 00:36:18,045
to get away.
You know?

829
00:36:18,088 --> 00:36:20,874
I knew about Lo Lifes,
but I didn't know
to what extent,

830
00:36:20,917 --> 00:36:22,528
and then I met
Thirstin Howl III.

831
00:36:22,571 --> 00:36:25,008
You know, he came out
with all this stuff,

832
00:36:25,052 --> 00:36:27,185
and it was all Polo,

833
00:36:27,228 --> 00:36:30,666
and I was like,
"This is crazy.
Where did you get this?"

834
00:36:30,710 --> 00:36:32,538
You know, "I didn't
even know Polo made this."

835
00:36:32,581 --> 00:36:34,975
It was an evolution
of the fashion.

836
00:36:35,018 --> 00:36:38,196
It transcended from
the likes of the Benetton

837
00:36:38,239 --> 00:36:39,545
and the Izod Lacoste.

838
00:36:39,588 --> 00:36:41,460
We were really attracted
to those things

839
00:36:41,503 --> 00:36:43,505
before we were
touching the Polo.

840
00:36:43,549 --> 00:36:46,204
And the thing with the Polo
was they didn't sell it

841
00:36:46,247 --> 00:36:49,859
in no ghettos or your local,
you know, stores in your
neighborhood,

842
00:36:49,903 --> 00:36:52,079
and you had to go
to the high-end stores

843
00:36:52,122 --> 00:36:53,602
on Fifth Avenue and all that,

844
00:36:53,646 --> 00:36:55,343
so if you went
and you got some of that stuff

845
00:36:55,387 --> 00:36:58,781
and you came back in the hood,
you was, like--you rich.

846
00:36:58,825 --> 00:37:00,566
You know, we living
in the projects, man.

847
00:37:00,609 --> 00:37:02,263
I didn't even have furniture
in my house, man,

848
00:37:02,307 --> 00:37:06,876
but I had Polo everywhere,
you know?

849
00:37:06,920 --> 00:37:11,054
What you see is a classic
case of low-life syndrome.

850
00:37:11,098 --> 00:37:14,797
This is, right here,
the big Lo symbol right here,

851
00:37:14,841 --> 00:37:18,279
the big Polo, Ralph Lauren right
here, you know what I'm saying?

852
00:37:18,323 --> 00:37:21,282
Represent right here,
another little symbol--pow!

853
00:37:21,326 --> 00:37:24,154
Thank you, Ralph.

854
00:37:24,198 --> 00:37:29,421
Thank you for that cream
Polo sweatshirt

855
00:37:29,464 --> 00:37:32,075
with the cream chenille letters
across the front

856
00:37:32,119 --> 00:37:33,599
that I wore in college,

857
00:37:33,642 --> 00:37:36,297
shitting on everybody there

858
00:37:36,341 --> 00:37:40,432
Thank you for allowing me
to shit on so many people.

859
00:37:40,475 --> 00:37:41,476
Thank you, Ralph.

860
00:37:43,783 --> 00:37:45,611
We were like free
promotions for him.

861
00:37:50,268 --> 00:37:52,574
Tommy Hilfigers would show up
in the hood,

862
00:37:52,618 --> 00:37:56,056
and open up a trunk with,
you know, clothes,

863
00:37:56,099 --> 00:37:58,580
and hand them out to--
you know, it was like--

864
00:37:58,624 --> 00:38:01,061
it was like the drug dealer,
you know,

865
00:38:01,104 --> 00:38:02,932
giving you a free hit.

866
00:38:02,976 --> 00:38:05,021
And then you're like,
"I want more."

867
00:38:05,065 --> 00:38:07,328
And so you're looking for it
and you're buying it, you know.

868
00:38:07,372 --> 00:38:10,288
It was smart. You know, he knew
what he was doing.

869
00:38:10,331 --> 00:38:12,638
You know, they knew
exactly what they were doing.

870
00:38:12,681 --> 00:38:16,076
You know,
they didn't pay Grand Puba,

871
00:38:16,119 --> 00:38:17,643
who broke all the Helly hats in

872
00:38:17,686 --> 00:38:19,514
and Hilfiger shit.

873
00:38:19,558 --> 00:38:21,951
They didn't offer
official endorsement deals

874
00:38:21,995 --> 00:38:23,562
to any of these artists.

875
00:38:23,605 --> 00:38:26,042
But, I mean,
Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren,

876
00:38:26,086 --> 00:38:29,132
they made a lot
of money off these guys.

877
00:38:29,176 --> 00:38:32,092
Being a promotion
walking around in the clubs,

878
00:38:32,135 --> 00:38:35,008
we were influencing the rappers
in the golden era

879
00:38:35,051 --> 00:38:37,140
and, you know,
them seeing us in the clubs,

880
00:38:37,184 --> 00:38:39,055
50 guys wearing the same shirt--

881
00:38:39,099 --> 00:38:41,797
when the rappers was doing--
they were copying it,

882
00:38:41,841 --> 00:38:43,799
and they were
doing it in their videos,

883
00:38:43,843 --> 00:38:45,888
and then that was, you know,
going around the world.

884
00:38:45,932 --> 00:38:47,847
They were influencing
the world through that.

885
00:38:47,890 --> 00:38:49,152


886
00:38:52,460 --> 00:38:54,636


887
00:38:57,770 --> 00:39:00,729

you're doing 'cause
I'm about to ruin

888
00:39:00,773 --> 00:39:02,644

you're used to

889
00:39:02,688 --> 00:39:05,299

I'm making money, see

890
00:39:05,343 --> 00:39:07,257

ready for me

891
00:39:07,301 --> 00:39:09,695

I'm the new fool in town

892
00:39:09,738 --> 00:39:12,088

by the Underground

893
00:39:12,132 --> 00:39:14,308

you got on your shelf

894
00:39:14,352 --> 00:39:16,354

introduce myself

895
00:39:16,397 --> 00:39:19,966
With the explosion
of hip-hop music in the 1990s,

896
00:39:20,009 --> 00:39:22,795
hip-hop starts moving
into becoming mainstream,

897
00:39:22,838 --> 00:39:24,405
which means television,

898
00:39:24,449 --> 00:39:27,103
through music videos,
through music television.

899
00:39:27,147 --> 00:39:29,497
We had Ralph McDaniels
well before MTV

900
00:39:29,541 --> 00:39:33,022
documenting our stories,
bringing them into our home.

901
00:39:33,066 --> 00:39:35,982
Every day after school at 3:30,
that's what we watched,

902
00:39:36,025 --> 00:39:37,418
and that's when we
started seeing it,

903
00:39:37,462 --> 00:39:39,377
and then we had concerts,

904
00:39:39,420 --> 00:39:42,728
we had television shows like
The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air

905
00:39:42,771 --> 00:39:44,164
and In Living Color

906
00:39:44,207 --> 00:39:46,993
that now started
showing the looks

907
00:39:47,036 --> 00:39:49,212
that were not
just designer brands

908
00:39:49,256 --> 00:39:52,433
that we were used to seeing on
Lifestyles of the Rich and
Famous,

909
00:39:52,477 --> 00:39:54,566
but now we're seeing brands
that we can relate to.

910
00:39:54,609 --> 00:39:58,221
So there was a number of things
that kind of catapulted
this look

911
00:39:58,265 --> 00:39:59,135
to become mainstream.

912
00:40:00,659 --> 00:40:02,791
The music came
and put a light on us,

913
00:40:02,835 --> 00:40:05,272
where we'd been
dressing in the hood.

914
00:40:05,315 --> 00:40:08,928
But without hip-hop, there was
no light looking in the hood

915
00:40:08,971 --> 00:40:12,453
to see what the fuck you got on.
You know what I'm saying?

916
00:40:12,497 --> 00:40:14,281
Nobody was--"Yo,
what these folks in the hood"--

917
00:40:14,324 --> 00:40:15,891
nobody cared about that.

918
00:40:15,935 --> 00:40:17,197
They only cared about that

919
00:40:17,240 --> 00:40:18,938
by the time when it was here.

920
00:40:18,981 --> 00:40:20,505
And what did that do?

921
00:40:20,548 --> 00:40:22,681
That birthed
the street wear culture.

922
00:40:31,994 --> 00:40:34,519
I mean, the first time
we started seeing

923
00:40:34,562 --> 00:40:39,741
that urban really had
some dollars behind it
was through Cross Colours.

924
00:40:39,785 --> 00:40:43,136
Here was a brand that was
actually started in California

925
00:40:43,179 --> 00:40:45,486
by a black fashion executive

926
00:40:45,530 --> 00:40:47,706
who actually came
out of the surf business

927
00:40:47,749 --> 00:40:50,839
who realized that there was
something going on,

928
00:40:50,883 --> 00:40:52,754
'cause he would come
to New York all the time

929
00:40:52,798 --> 00:40:56,671
and go on the subway and visit
Spike Lee's store in Brooklyn,

930
00:40:56,715 --> 00:40:59,195
and he was seeing how young men
were wearing their clothes.

931
00:40:59,239 --> 00:41:00,719
I was doing business
with a store

932
00:41:00,762 --> 00:41:03,330
called Merry-Go-Round
Enterprises.

933
00:41:03,373 --> 00:41:04,940
I started talking
to the buyers there

934
00:41:04,984 --> 00:41:09,292
about who their customers were.
Who they sold to.

935
00:41:09,336 --> 00:41:12,905
It was mainly what
the stores referred to as

936
00:41:12,948 --> 00:41:14,472
an urban customer.

937
00:41:19,389 --> 00:41:23,393
But for me, it was the
African-American customer.

938
00:41:24,873 --> 00:41:27,659
I rode the subways in New York

939
00:41:27,702 --> 00:41:33,142
because at the time I felt rap
music was coming from New York,

940
00:41:33,186 --> 00:41:38,147
and that was a definite
lifestyle and culture

941
00:41:38,191 --> 00:41:39,888
at that time.

942
00:41:39,932 --> 00:41:41,411
They were wearing, like, jeans

943
00:41:41,455 --> 00:41:45,328
that were four or
five sizes too big,

944
00:41:45,372 --> 00:41:46,765
and I--"Oh, that's interesting."

945
00:41:46,808 --> 00:41:48,854
They're using a belt
to hold them on,

946
00:41:48,897 --> 00:41:51,465
so I thought, well,

947
00:41:51,509 --> 00:41:53,075
I could do something like that

948
00:41:53,119 --> 00:41:57,558
that--where it was
a baggy silhouette.

949
00:41:57,602 --> 00:42:00,343
However, the waist was a waist

950
00:42:00,387 --> 00:42:03,259
that would fit
that person's body.

951
00:42:03,303 --> 00:42:05,174
My medium was a large.

952
00:42:05,218 --> 00:42:09,222
My 32 was a 36 silhouette

953
00:42:09,265 --> 00:42:12,791
with a 32 waist for a bottom.

954
00:42:12,834 --> 00:42:15,315
No one is really saying,
you know,

955
00:42:15,358 --> 00:42:17,317
"I'm designing
for this customer,

956
00:42:17,360 --> 00:42:18,927
"I'm designing for this market--

957
00:42:18,971 --> 00:42:20,538
"I'm designing for street wear.

958
00:42:20,581 --> 00:42:21,930
"I design from the ghetto

959
00:42:21,974 --> 00:42:24,193
for the ghetto,
for the street,"

960
00:42:24,237 --> 00:42:27,719
and those were all the thoughts
going through my head.

961
00:42:29,155 --> 00:42:31,418

all about how

962
00:42:31,461 --> 00:42:34,377

turned upside-down

963
00:42:34,421 --> 00:42:36,205
I hired a marketing
guy at the time

964
00:42:36,249 --> 00:42:37,903
by the name of David Stinnett,

965
00:42:37,946 --> 00:42:41,907
and I said, "Hey, why
don't you call up, you know,

966
00:42:41,950 --> 00:42:44,039
"The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air

967
00:42:44,083 --> 00:42:47,347
"and, you know,
see if they're interested

968
00:42:47,390 --> 00:42:50,219
in wearing our clothes."

969
00:42:50,263 --> 00:42:51,438
And I'll never forget--

970
00:42:51,481 --> 00:42:52,961
he came back and said,

971
00:42:53,005 --> 00:42:55,224
"Carl, you won't
believe what's happened!

972
00:42:55,268 --> 00:42:56,878
"They love your stuff!

973
00:42:56,922 --> 00:42:58,445
"They were looking
for something like this

974
00:42:58,488 --> 00:43:00,012
"but didn't know it exists,

975
00:43:00,055 --> 00:43:03,972
and they love it,
they want more."

976
00:43:04,016 --> 00:43:05,583
Two or three nights later,

977
00:43:05,626 --> 00:43:07,019
there he was

978
00:43:07,062 --> 00:43:08,629
on The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air

979
00:43:08,673 --> 00:43:10,805
wearing our clothing.

980
00:43:10,849 --> 00:43:15,114
Banks residence.
Have a holly jolly Christmas.

981
00:43:15,157 --> 00:43:18,552
My brother, you got a problem
with my lights?

982
00:43:18,596 --> 00:43:20,859
Why don't you come tell me that
to my face, then?

983
00:43:20,902 --> 00:43:22,600
Hey, we can do
whatever you want to do.

984
00:43:22,643 --> 00:43:23,644
It's your world, squirrel,

985
00:43:23,688 --> 00:43:25,864
I'm just trying
to get a nut.

986
00:43:25,907 --> 00:43:28,388
And that was
the beginning of it,

987
00:43:28,431 --> 00:43:29,955
and the next thing,

988
00:43:29,998 --> 00:43:31,609
In Living Colorcalled us--

989
00:43:31,652 --> 00:43:33,872
"Oh, we saw your stuff."

990
00:43:42,141 --> 00:43:43,577
And then, later,
what I was told--

991
00:43:43,621 --> 00:43:45,318
"Well, you changed
the whole spec

992
00:43:45,361 --> 00:43:47,363
of the young men's market."

993
00:43:47,407 --> 00:43:50,453
You know, "Fitted silhouettes
aren't working anymore."

994
00:43:50,497 --> 00:43:54,109
So I think the industry
began to change their specs

995
00:43:54,153 --> 00:43:58,548
where, you know, everybody else
started doing larger sizes.

996
00:43:58,592 --> 00:44:02,030
'92--it was really '90, is
when the baggy jeans started--

997
00:44:02,074 --> 00:44:05,773
but '92 is when you know
for sure it had impacted.

998
00:44:05,817 --> 00:44:09,603
Everybody's pants were big.

999
00:44:09,647 --> 00:44:12,345
I was probably about
a freshman in college or so

1000
00:44:12,388 --> 00:44:13,955
when it was at its peak,

1001
00:44:13,999 --> 00:44:16,218
and this concept that
there was a clothing brand

1002
00:44:16,262 --> 00:44:18,830
that united young people
in thought,

1003
00:44:18,873 --> 00:44:20,135
as well as races,

1004
00:44:20,179 --> 00:44:22,355
was very intriguing for me.

1005
00:44:22,398 --> 00:44:24,662
The idea of offering clothes

1006
00:44:24,705 --> 00:44:27,142
that made you proud
of your ethnicity...

1007
00:44:29,057 --> 00:44:32,191
Here was a time where
women were really wearing

1008
00:44:32,234 --> 00:44:34,149
those same oversized clothes

1009
00:44:34,193 --> 00:44:35,934
just as much as the men were,

1010
00:44:35,977 --> 00:44:38,327
and I actually think of TLC

1011
00:44:38,371 --> 00:44:40,416
before I think of anyone else
wearing Cross Colours,

1012
00:44:40,460 --> 00:44:42,331
let's say,
and as being an influence

1013
00:44:42,375 --> 00:44:43,681
in wearing a men's brand.

1014
00:44:45,857 --> 00:44:47,685
No one really
catered to the women

1015
00:44:47,728 --> 00:44:51,036
when it came to
trying to dress us.

1016
00:44:51,079 --> 00:44:52,864
It was a male's game.

1017
00:44:52,907 --> 00:44:57,172
But I remember the first time
I saw TLC wearing Cross Colours.

1018
00:44:57,216 --> 00:44:58,957
I was like, "Oh! Hmm!

1019
00:44:59,000 --> 00:45:00,959
Got my attention.
Let me see."

1020
00:45:01,002 --> 00:45:03,048
Made me want to bring out
more of the woman in me.

1021
00:45:03,091 --> 00:45:05,224
They really created a spark.

1022
00:45:05,267 --> 00:45:07,356
Like, "Wait a minute.

1023
00:45:07,400 --> 00:45:08,575
"I want to shine too.

1024
00:45:08,618 --> 00:45:10,229
I need some bright colors."

1025
00:45:10,272 --> 00:45:12,927
It became clothing for everyone.

1026
00:45:12,971 --> 00:45:16,757
It was celebrities loved it
'cause we embraced celebrities.

1027
00:45:16,801 --> 00:45:18,672
We embraced
all the music artists.

1028
00:45:18,716 --> 00:45:21,283
And they--never was there
any company that ever

1029
00:45:21,327 --> 00:45:23,416
reached out to artists and said,
"Wear my clothing."

1030
00:45:23,459 --> 00:45:25,374
I think we were probably
the first ones to do it.

1031
00:45:25,418 --> 00:45:27,333
So we were definitely
onto something.

1032
00:45:27,376 --> 00:45:29,335
Cross Colours,
within four years,

1033
00:45:29,378 --> 00:45:32,077
went from a zero
to $100 million.

1034
00:45:32,120 --> 00:45:34,601
So the success of Cross Colours

1035
00:45:34,644 --> 00:45:38,213
then birthed a series of other
entrepreneurs that decided,

1036
00:45:38,257 --> 00:45:41,129
"We want to create
our own brands too."

1037
00:45:41,173 --> 00:45:45,612
So out of Cross Colours
came this phenomenal
group of individuals,

1038
00:45:45,655 --> 00:45:47,483
from Jeff Tweedy,

1039
00:45:47,527 --> 00:45:49,964
celebrity stylist June Ambrose,

1040
00:45:50,008 --> 00:45:51,792
Tony Shellman,
who ended up going on

1041
00:45:51,836 --> 00:45:55,230
to launch several bands,
from Mecca to Parish Nation,

1042
00:45:55,274 --> 00:45:56,710
April Walker,

1043
00:45:56,754 --> 00:45:58,756
and I can go on and on and on.

1044
00:46:05,066 --> 00:46:07,242
We wanted to get
into the denim business,

1045
00:46:07,286 --> 00:46:10,637
and we did our research,
and we found out
that Guess and Girbaud

1046
00:46:10,680 --> 00:46:12,421
was manufactured in California.

1047
00:46:12,465 --> 00:46:15,685
So a friend of mine's, AZ,
he found a factory

1048
00:46:15,729 --> 00:46:17,209
that was manufacturing Guess,

1049
00:46:17,252 --> 00:46:19,341
so he flew me out there,

1050
00:46:19,385 --> 00:46:20,778
and we stood outside the factory

1051
00:46:20,821 --> 00:46:22,605
till the workers
got off of work,

1052
00:46:22,649 --> 00:46:24,216
and, you know, we didn't really
know our Spanish that well,

1053
00:46:24,259 --> 00:46:28,002
so we was like,
"Trabajo machina, mucho dinero."

1054
00:46:28,046 --> 00:46:29,308
So we kept saying it
to a bunch of people.

1055
00:46:29,351 --> 00:46:30,396
They just kept walking away.

1056
00:46:30,439 --> 00:46:32,180
This one guy says,

1057
00:46:32,224 --> 00:46:34,008
"Oh, you want me to sew
and you'll pay me more money?"

1058
00:46:34,052 --> 00:46:36,141
A Spanish guy,
so he spoke English,

1059
00:46:36,184 --> 00:46:38,186
and he was--kind of was
our linkage to everything.

1060
00:46:38,230 --> 00:46:41,276
He was a guy named Juan. So he
put us up on the denim spots.

1061
00:46:41,320 --> 00:46:43,409
He showed us where
to get the fabrics from,

1062
00:46:43,452 --> 00:46:45,150
and we just started
moving and shaking.

1063
00:46:45,193 --> 00:46:46,412
So we took the New York hustle

1064
00:46:46,455 --> 00:46:47,848
and brought it to California.

1065
00:46:50,285 --> 00:46:52,200
We had a store
on Crenshaw Boulevard.

1066
00:46:52,244 --> 00:46:54,812
Some entrepreneurs decided
to come into our store

1067
00:46:54,855 --> 00:46:56,204
and rob our store at gunpoint,

1068
00:46:56,248 --> 00:46:57,815
and took all of our samples--

1069
00:46:57,858 --> 00:46:59,294
took everything we had.

1070
00:46:59,338 --> 00:47:00,905
And at that point,
we had a choice

1071
00:47:00,948 --> 00:47:04,212
to either stay out here
or go back to New York.

1072
00:47:04,256 --> 00:47:06,214
So one day,
we went to the Palladium,

1073
00:47:06,258 --> 00:47:08,260
and Cross Colours was
in the middle of a fashion show,

1074
00:47:08,303 --> 00:47:11,654
and I saw Carl Jones,
and I asked him,

1075
00:47:11,698 --> 00:47:13,831
"You know, Carl, how do I get my
stuff in department stores?

1076
00:47:13,874 --> 00:47:16,094
I want to really get
my brand out there."

1077
00:47:16,137 --> 00:47:17,922
He was like, "If you come
to my office tomorrow,

1078
00:47:17,965 --> 00:47:19,575
I'll be willing to talk to you."

1079
00:47:19,619 --> 00:47:21,839
I came to his office,
and within the first 15 minutes,

1080
00:47:21,882 --> 00:47:23,797
he was just like, "You know,
I heard about your stuff.

1081
00:47:23,841 --> 00:47:26,017
If you need some help,
I'd be willing to help you out."

1082
00:47:26,060 --> 00:47:28,889
Two weeks later, we had a deal,
and he invited me to become

1083
00:47:28,933 --> 00:47:30,369
partners with him
in the business.

1084
00:47:33,763 --> 00:47:36,679
He was very selective in
who he gave his clothes to.

1085
00:47:36,723 --> 00:47:38,768
He gave it to the Biggie Smalls.
He gave it to the Tupacs.

1086
00:47:38,812 --> 00:47:40,118
He gave it to
more sophisticated guys,

1087
00:47:40,161 --> 00:47:42,468
where Cross Colours
was more TLC,

1088
00:47:42,511 --> 00:47:44,296
Snoop Dogg,
and things of that nature.

1089
00:47:44,339 --> 00:47:46,341
So we sort of made sure that

1090
00:47:46,385 --> 00:47:49,344
they sort of had
a different vision

1091
00:47:49,388 --> 00:47:51,129
and the branding
was slightly different

1092
00:47:51,172 --> 00:47:52,565
in how we market the brand.

1093
00:47:54,523 --> 00:47:56,743
I did a Karl Kani ad,

1094
00:47:56,786 --> 00:48:00,268
and that was the coolest thing
that you could be involved in.

1095
00:48:00,312 --> 00:48:03,924
Like, who was in
the next Karl Kani ad?

1096
00:48:03,968 --> 00:48:07,797
And it just made
the dream accessible.

1097
00:48:07,841 --> 00:48:09,234
It made me feel like, you know,

1098
00:48:09,277 --> 00:48:11,149
if he could do it,
I could do it.

1099
00:48:12,933 --> 00:48:14,848
He had a sophisticated level.

1100
00:48:14,892 --> 00:48:16,154
He understood clothing,

1101
00:48:16,197 --> 00:48:17,198
he understood tailoring,

1102
00:48:17,242 --> 00:48:18,373
he understood quality,

1103
00:48:18,417 --> 00:48:21,550
and he wanted the best.

1104
00:48:21,594 --> 00:48:23,465
There was a lot of learning
obstacles for us.

1105
00:48:23,509 --> 00:48:25,728
We were young--
I was 22 years old.

1106
00:48:27,556 --> 00:48:29,471
I didn't make a lot
of money back then.

1107
00:48:29,515 --> 00:48:32,910
You know, we was kind of
learning the ropes a little bit.

1108
00:48:32,953 --> 00:48:35,129
Stores were afraid
of this culture.

1109
00:48:35,173 --> 00:48:36,914
They really were.

1110
00:48:36,957 --> 00:48:38,437
They really didn't want
this customer in their store.

1111
00:48:38,480 --> 00:48:41,092
You know, these stores
was highly traded,

1112
00:48:41,135 --> 00:48:45,009
you know, white suburban
and very traditional.

1113
00:48:47,228 --> 00:48:49,665
For a long time, department
stores were fighting it.

1114
00:48:49,709 --> 00:48:51,929
At the time, we were called
the urban designers

1115
00:48:51,972 --> 00:48:54,105
or hip-hop designers.

1116
00:48:54,148 --> 00:48:56,063
They couldn't break
into department stores.

1117
00:48:56,107 --> 00:48:57,935
It was Tommy Hilfiger,

1118
00:48:57,978 --> 00:48:58,979
Polo,

1119
00:48:59,023 --> 00:49:00,328
all the big names.

1120
00:49:00,372 --> 00:49:02,069
The music industry is, you know,

1121
00:49:02,113 --> 00:49:05,464
making those names
big and bigger

1122
00:49:05,507 --> 00:49:07,422
by constantly
talking about them.

1123
00:49:07,466 --> 00:49:09,642
But, you know,
when we get our own brands,

1124
00:49:09,685 --> 00:49:12,862
we're not, you know,
being let on the floor

1125
00:49:12,906 --> 00:49:14,995
to even--to compete with that.

1126
00:49:17,693 --> 00:49:20,566
It was very difficult when I was
running Karl Kani to even--

1127
00:49:20,609 --> 00:49:22,742
for department stores
to even look at our product.

1128
00:49:22,785 --> 00:49:24,874
Because they didn't know--
you know,

1129
00:49:24,918 --> 00:49:29,053
most department stores put
a name to, you know, a product.

1130
00:49:29,096 --> 00:49:31,142
And at that time,
it was men's sportswear

1131
00:49:31,185 --> 00:49:32,795
and men's traditional
and men's suits,

1132
00:49:32,839 --> 00:49:34,493
and that was pretty much it.

1133
00:49:34,536 --> 00:49:36,625
So we came out with Karl Kani
and Cross Colours,

1134
00:49:36,669 --> 00:49:38,366
they really didn't know
how to identify it.

1135
00:49:38,410 --> 00:49:41,500
So what they did was,
whoever wore the clothes,

1136
00:49:41,543 --> 00:49:45,504
Too Short or Snoop Dogg
or anyone on the West Coast,

1137
00:49:45,547 --> 00:49:47,636
they considered it gang wear.

1138
00:49:47,680 --> 00:49:51,423
Then they toned it down
and they called it street wear.

1139
00:49:51,466 --> 00:49:53,338
Then it became urban.

1140
00:49:53,381 --> 00:49:55,688
So imagine, you know, this buyer

1141
00:49:55,731 --> 00:49:58,038
who's never been to the streets
in their life

1142
00:49:58,082 --> 00:50:01,041
all the sudden carrying a line
that's considered gang wear.

1143
00:50:01,085 --> 00:50:02,695
And then you got to associate

1144
00:50:02,738 --> 00:50:04,349
what type of consumer
demographics

1145
00:50:04,392 --> 00:50:05,393
was walking in that store.

1146
00:50:09,267 --> 00:50:11,051
You know,
retailers would tell me,

1147
00:50:11,095 --> 00:50:13,662
"Your sweat suit is the same
as Fila's sweat suit.

1148
00:50:13,706 --> 00:50:15,316
Why should I pay yours?"

1149
00:50:17,579 --> 00:50:19,059
I don't know if it was race

1150
00:50:19,103 --> 00:50:22,280
as much as not understanding

1151
00:50:22,323 --> 00:50:24,108
what we were doing,

1152
00:50:24,151 --> 00:50:27,111
and being into--
at the time, hip-hop period

1153
00:50:27,154 --> 00:50:28,982
the vibe was, "This is a fad.

1154
00:50:29,026 --> 00:50:31,854
It's not gonna last,
from music to fashion."

1155
00:50:34,944 --> 00:50:37,730
I'd have black and white buyers
say the kind of same thing.

1156
00:50:37,773 --> 00:50:39,906
They're like, you know,
"Black people won't buy that,"

1157
00:50:39,949 --> 00:50:41,516
or, "White people
won't buy that."

1158
00:50:41,560 --> 00:50:43,605
That's what they would say.

1159
00:50:43,649 --> 00:50:46,173
People perceive me as,
like, a wigger.

1160
00:50:46,217 --> 00:50:47,435
I would get that a lot.

1161
00:50:47,479 --> 00:50:49,481
So it didn't surprise me

1162
00:50:49,524 --> 00:50:53,354
when the buy side had
the same kind of apprehension.

1163
00:50:53,398 --> 00:50:55,313
When the buy side
of building my business

1164
00:50:55,356 --> 00:50:56,923
was kind of like, "Hmm."

1165
00:50:56,966 --> 00:50:59,360
Little cynical, like, "Hmm."

1166
00:51:02,102 --> 00:51:04,496
They really didn't want
this consumer in the store,

1167
00:51:04,539 --> 00:51:06,237
but they had to,
'cause the demand was there.

1168
00:51:06,280 --> 00:51:09,370
And Carl Jones and Karl Kani
created the demand

1169
00:51:09,414 --> 00:51:12,069
that you had to carry
my product.

1170
00:51:12,112 --> 00:51:13,809
Wear your Karl Kani.

1171
00:51:13,853 --> 00:51:16,203
We were the first brands
to have our own shops

1172
00:51:16,247 --> 00:51:18,118
in Macy's next to Ralph Lauren

1173
00:51:18,162 --> 00:51:20,338
and Polo and Tommy Hilfiger

1174
00:51:20,381 --> 00:51:21,426
and Nautica.

1175
00:51:21,469 --> 00:51:23,080
mr. Karl Kani.

1176
00:51:23,123 --> 00:51:25,125
Stores realized
what the income of

1177
00:51:25,169 --> 00:51:27,693
and the outcome of this
could have been and was,

1178
00:51:27,736 --> 00:51:31,479
so they took heed to it and
put it and bought a lot of it.

1179
00:51:31,523 --> 00:51:36,876
1996, this was the start of the
business making a transition

1180
00:51:36,919 --> 00:51:39,792
from being a mom and pop
specialty store business

1181
00:51:39,835 --> 00:51:42,273
to being a department
store business.

1182
00:51:42,316 --> 00:51:45,363


1183
00:51:45,406 --> 00:51:47,147


1184
00:51:47,191 --> 00:51:48,583


1185
00:51:48,627 --> 00:51:50,150


1186
00:51:50,194 --> 00:51:51,369

it's mine, it's mine

1187
00:51:51,412 --> 00:51:53,153


1188
00:51:53,197 --> 00:51:54,763


1189
00:51:54,807 --> 00:51:56,548

it's mine, it's mine

1190
00:51:56,591 --> 00:51:58,332


1191
00:51:58,376 --> 00:51:59,638


1192
00:51:59,681 --> 00:52:01,205


1193
00:52:01,248 --> 00:52:02,771

it's mine, it's mine

1194
00:52:02,815 --> 00:52:04,164
It was a crazy time.

1195
00:52:04,208 --> 00:52:06,035
It was like--
it was on fire.

1196
00:52:06,079 --> 00:52:08,037
Hip-hop was growing fast.

1197
00:52:08,081 --> 00:52:11,171
It was a movement going on--
fight the power.

1198
00:52:11,215 --> 00:52:14,000
Hip-hop was just exploding
in every way and any way,

1199
00:52:14,043 --> 00:52:16,263
and so as far
as the apparel was concerned,

1200
00:52:16,307 --> 00:52:18,874
it was kind of like
there was no main focus.

1201
00:52:18,918 --> 00:52:21,834
It was just whoever
had an apparel company

1202
00:52:21,877 --> 00:52:23,096
basically was part
of the movement,

1203
00:52:23,140 --> 00:52:24,793
and they got to win.

1204
00:52:24,837 --> 00:52:27,970
It was crazy.
It was crazy to be a part of it.

1205
00:52:34,412 --> 00:52:36,849
Yeah, Video Music Box
Friday night street party.

1206
00:52:36,892 --> 00:52:39,765
your Uncle Ralph in the place.
I'm out here in Las Vegas

1207
00:52:39,808 --> 00:52:42,724
at the MAGIC convention.
It's the clothing convention.

1208
00:52:42,768 --> 00:52:46,337
MAGIC is where
all the clothing stores
and companies and all that come,

1209
00:52:46,380 --> 00:52:49,340
and they all,
you know what I'm saying,
come, the buyers come and cop,

1210
00:52:49,383 --> 00:52:52,604
and then they put it
in a store near you,
you know what I'm saying?

1211
00:52:52,647 --> 00:52:54,780
We went to this thing called
the MAGIC show in Las Vegas.

1212
00:52:54,823 --> 00:52:56,564
We didn't have enough money
to exhibit in the trade show,

1213
00:52:56,608 --> 00:52:58,479
or even walk
into the trade show.

1214
00:52:58,523 --> 00:53:00,786
And we wrote $300,000
worth of orders

1215
00:53:00,829 --> 00:53:03,876
out of this little hotel
room five miles away, away from
the trade show.

1216
00:53:03,919 --> 00:53:06,487
We then come back--
we don't have any money.

1217
00:53:06,531 --> 00:53:08,141
We get turned down by 27 banks.

1218
00:53:08,185 --> 00:53:10,752
We go into my house, we take all
the furniture we can,

1219
00:53:10,796 --> 00:53:13,015
we sell what we can.

1220
00:53:13,059 --> 00:53:15,583
The rest that we cannot sell,
we burn in oil drums.

1221
00:53:15,627 --> 00:53:18,412
It takes about two weeks,
because we wanted to get
the furniture out of there,

1222
00:53:18,456 --> 00:53:21,850
and we move industrial
sewing machines in there
and we hire a staff.

1223
00:53:23,722 --> 00:53:25,724
We slept in sleeping bags
next to those machines,

1224
00:53:25,767 --> 00:53:29,075
and for a year we would just
crank FUBU out of the house,

1225
00:53:29,118 --> 00:53:31,469
and that started
to populate the stores,

1226
00:53:31,512 --> 00:53:34,820
and the stores started to sell
polar fleece and sweatshirts

1227
00:53:34,863 --> 00:53:36,778
in August in Texas.

1228
00:53:36,822 --> 00:53:39,085
And then people started
to realize who we were.

1229
00:53:42,088 --> 00:53:44,873
FUBU was able to do

1230
00:53:44,917 --> 00:53:47,485
what Cross Colours didn't
in terms of volume,

1231
00:53:47,528 --> 00:53:49,835
so while its
predecessor at its max,

1232
00:53:49,878 --> 00:53:52,229
at its peak,
did $100 million,

1233
00:53:52,272 --> 00:53:55,319
and that was in 1990,

1234
00:53:55,362 --> 00:53:57,495
less than seven years later,

1235
00:53:57,538 --> 00:53:59,714
you're talking about a brand
that proved itself

1236
00:53:59,758 --> 00:54:02,064
at $350 million.

1237
00:54:04,284 --> 00:54:08,810
It went beyond just
the local kids in the hood.

1238
00:54:08,854 --> 00:54:11,813
You know, the leaders in that
that sort of really

1239
00:54:11,857 --> 00:54:15,252
naturally used the media

1240
00:54:15,295 --> 00:54:18,733
and used TV properly was FUBU.

1241
00:54:18,777 --> 00:54:22,389
I mean, although videos
were being dominated
by Karl Kani.

1242
00:54:22,433 --> 00:54:27,046
FUBU was clever enough
to put a hat on LL
in a Gap commercial--

1243
00:54:27,089 --> 00:54:28,569
changed everything.

1244
00:54:28,613 --> 00:54:31,224
Just changed everything.

1245
00:54:31,268 --> 00:54:34,314
LL was always somebody
who made his own rules

1246
00:54:34,358 --> 00:54:36,882
and, because he felt
that the Gap at the time

1247
00:54:36,925 --> 00:54:38,405
didn't really respect
the culture or him,

1248
00:54:38,449 --> 00:54:40,233
he put FUBU
in the Gap commercial.

1249
00:54:40,277 --> 00:54:41,756

the Gap calling

1250
00:54:41,800 --> 00:54:43,192

resist the shopping

1251
00:54:43,236 --> 00:54:44,498

non-stoppin'

1252
00:54:44,542 --> 00:54:46,152

jeans poppin'

1253
00:54:46,195 --> 00:54:48,285

and city G-A-P gritty

1254
00:54:48,328 --> 00:54:50,591

By us on the low

1255
00:54:50,635 --> 00:54:52,898
The Gap ended up spending $30
million on that commercial,

1256
00:54:52,941 --> 00:54:55,161
and it became basically
a FUBU commercial.

1257
00:54:58,773 --> 00:55:02,560
'Pac used to wear
my clothes all the time,
even before I met him.

1258
00:55:02,603 --> 00:55:05,911
So I wanted to meet this dude,
man, 'cause, you know,
'Pac was all over the place,

1259
00:55:05,954 --> 00:55:07,434
so AZ, again,

1260
00:55:07,478 --> 00:55:09,567
he set up a meeting.

1261
00:55:09,610 --> 00:55:12,047
So we go up to 'Pac's room.
The whole time we're in there--

1262
00:55:12,091 --> 00:55:14,136
he didn't even look me in my
face when I walked in the room.

1263
00:55:14,180 --> 00:55:16,269
He just said "What's up." He was
typing a script to a movie.

1264
00:55:16,313 --> 00:55:18,489
As he's typing
the script to the movie,

1265
00:55:18,532 --> 00:55:20,273
he's having a very intelligent
conversation with me

1266
00:55:20,317 --> 00:55:23,624
about black culture,
hip-hop,

1267
00:55:23,668 --> 00:55:25,191
things like that.

1268
00:55:25,234 --> 00:55:27,454
The only time he stopped typing

1269
00:55:27,498 --> 00:55:28,542
was when I asked him--

1270
00:55:28,586 --> 00:55:30,414
I said, "'Pac, so, like,

1271
00:55:30,457 --> 00:55:34,548
how much would you charge me
to do an ad?"

1272
00:55:34,592 --> 00:55:36,942
He stopped.

1273
00:55:36,985 --> 00:55:39,858
He said, "Man, I ain't gonna
charge you. You're black."

1274
00:55:39,901 --> 00:55:41,468
I charge my people for nothing.

1275
00:55:41,512 --> 00:55:43,122
And the man kept his word.

1276
00:55:43,165 --> 00:55:45,254
Two weeks later,
we was in New York.

1277
00:55:45,298 --> 00:55:48,040
We did the photo shoot.
He was all love.

1278
00:55:48,083 --> 00:55:50,695
And ever since then,
we became tight.

1279
00:55:50,738 --> 00:55:53,045
And Tupac was one big reason

1280
00:55:53,088 --> 00:55:55,482
why I helped my brand
at--nationally and globally.

1281
00:55:55,526 --> 00:55:57,615
They worship him like a god

1282
00:55:57,658 --> 00:55:59,443
overseas in Europe.

1283
00:56:12,456 --> 00:56:15,502
I've seen an influence
of hip-hop fashion

1284
00:56:15,546 --> 00:56:16,982
all over the world.

1285
00:56:17,025 --> 00:56:18,766
In Japan and places in Europe--

1286
00:56:18,810 --> 00:56:20,072
all over Europe.

1287
00:56:20,115 --> 00:56:22,117
It's how they
relate to the music.

1288
00:56:22,161 --> 00:56:24,685
They don't just listen to it;
they embody it.

1289
00:56:29,690 --> 00:56:32,214
When you don't
understand English,

1290
00:56:32,258 --> 00:56:36,784
what makes you go
to buy an album?

1291
00:56:36,828 --> 00:56:39,526
The look, the fashion,

1292
00:56:39,570 --> 00:56:41,485
will transmit something

1293
00:56:41,528 --> 00:56:43,487
you can't explain.

1294
00:56:43,530 --> 00:56:47,316
I remember the pictures
with the black suit

1295
00:56:47,360 --> 00:56:48,622
and leather.

1296
00:56:48,666 --> 00:56:51,538
The Kangol, the glasses,

1297
00:56:51,582 --> 00:56:53,018
and the Adidas.

1298
00:56:53,061 --> 00:56:54,585
When I was back in Italy,

1299
00:56:54,628 --> 00:56:56,369
like, you know, 15 years ago,
20 years ago,

1300
00:56:56,413 --> 00:56:58,545
I was one of the only kids,
probably, in Italy

1301
00:56:58,589 --> 00:57:00,939
that was already listening
to hip-hop music and rap music.

1302
00:57:00,982 --> 00:57:02,593
I was, like,
you know, getting clothes,

1303
00:57:02,636 --> 00:57:04,551
and getting music
from my friends

1304
00:57:04,595 --> 00:57:07,249
who had, like, the opportunity
to go to New York and buy them

1305
00:57:07,293 --> 00:57:09,991
when it already was not yet
popular in Europe.

1306
00:57:10,035 --> 00:57:12,907
And I always loved it, because
that, again, is about freedom,

1307
00:57:12,951 --> 00:57:17,651
is about, you know, supporting
the roots of the culture.

1308
00:57:22,351 --> 00:57:25,442
In the international market,
the hip-hop culture's there.

1309
00:57:25,485 --> 00:57:27,835
There's demographic
consumers there,

1310
00:57:27,879 --> 00:57:28,793
The clothes is there.

1311
00:57:32,274 --> 00:57:35,582
You cannot talking about hip-hop
only in the U.S. anymore.

1312
00:57:35,626 --> 00:57:37,802
Hip-hop is not
from the U.S. anymore.

1313
00:57:37,845 --> 00:57:39,978
It's come from Berlin.
It's come from Tokyo.

1314
00:57:40,021 --> 00:57:41,980
It's come from Hong Kong.
It's come from Paris.

1315
00:57:42,023 --> 00:57:43,242
It's come from everywhere.

1316
00:57:43,285 --> 00:57:44,765
It's only one world anymore.

1317
00:57:44,809 --> 00:57:47,115
One world for the money.
One world for the music.

1318
00:57:47,159 --> 00:57:49,509
One world for the fashion.

1319
00:57:49,553 --> 00:57:52,425
Everybody got the same shit
at the same time

1320
00:57:52,469 --> 00:57:53,948
everywhere in the world.

1321
00:57:53,992 --> 00:57:55,428
It's business.

1322
00:57:55,472 --> 00:57:57,386
So we don't talking
about culture.

1323
00:57:57,430 --> 00:57:59,432
We don't talking about style.
We don't talking about fashion.

1324
00:57:59,476 --> 00:58:00,912
We don't talking about music.

1325
00:58:00,955 --> 00:58:03,262
We're talking about
marketing and timing.

1326
00:58:03,305 --> 00:58:04,829
If you are in the right timing

1327
00:58:04,872 --> 00:58:06,265
with the right marketing,

1328
00:58:06,308 --> 00:58:07,875
you're gonna do
billion of dollar.

1329
00:58:07,919 --> 00:58:09,094
That's it.

1330
00:58:14,316 --> 00:58:16,710
I have an appointment
with Russell Simmons.

1331
00:58:16,754 --> 00:58:18,016
Can you call him?

1332
00:58:18,059 --> 00:58:21,846
Okay, sure.
It'll be one minute.

1333
00:58:21,889 --> 00:58:24,501
We currently represent
maybe 40 artists.

1334
00:58:24,544 --> 00:58:27,068
They've all had some success.

1335
00:58:27,112 --> 00:58:29,593
Some more than others.

1336
00:58:29,636 --> 00:58:31,856
I think people,
as they hear it more,

1337
00:58:31,899 --> 00:58:34,902
they understand it more
and will appreciate it more.

1338
00:58:34,946 --> 00:58:38,732
A person that must be given
a great deal of credit

1339
00:58:38,776 --> 00:58:43,737
is the man who was married
to the fabulous model,

1340
00:58:43,781 --> 00:58:45,086
Kimora Lee Simmons,

1341
00:58:45,130 --> 00:58:46,914
Russell Simmons.

1342
00:58:46,958 --> 00:58:49,830
What Russell Simmons
and Kimora Lee Simmons did

1343
00:58:49,874 --> 00:58:50,875
as a couple

1344
00:58:50,918 --> 00:58:52,441
was extraordinary.

1345
00:58:52,485 --> 00:58:54,400
Not only for the hip-hop culture

1346
00:58:54,443 --> 00:58:56,315
but for the fashion culture.

1347
00:58:56,358 --> 00:58:58,317
For the urban fashion culture.

1348
00:58:58,360 --> 00:59:01,015
What they created
with their brand--

1349
00:59:01,059 --> 00:59:02,974
the Phat Farm
product was amazing.

1350
00:59:05,106 --> 00:59:07,021
The music culture smartened up

1351
00:59:07,065 --> 00:59:09,110
with a guy
named Russell Simmons.

1352
00:59:09,154 --> 00:59:11,112
Here he comes with Phat Farm.

1353
00:59:11,156 --> 00:59:13,288
And then the people
that surround him

1354
00:59:13,332 --> 00:59:15,595
saying like, "Man, how much
they made off of that?"

1355
00:59:15,639 --> 00:59:17,031
Then you have all
these different things

1356
00:59:17,075 --> 00:59:19,077
that's a domino effect of,

1357
00:59:19,120 --> 00:59:21,296
you know, knowing
what our culture want

1358
00:59:21,340 --> 00:59:25,170
and how much money is made.

1359
00:59:25,213 --> 00:59:28,869
When mainstream American
culture discovered hip-hop,

1360
00:59:28,913 --> 00:59:31,916
they began trying to sort of,
you know,

1361
00:59:31,959 --> 00:59:35,789
sell bits and pieces of it
in any way they could.

1362
00:59:35,833 --> 00:59:40,359
And this is when you got
all of these, you know,

1363
00:59:40,402 --> 00:59:42,927
fashion labels
associated with rappers.

1364
00:59:45,973 --> 00:59:49,455
At Rocawear,
I would try to show a lifestyle
that people would buy into.

1365
00:59:49,498 --> 00:59:52,458
That's what I was
ultimately trying to do.
You know what I'm saying?

1366
00:59:52,501 --> 00:59:54,416
I was like, I don't
want it to be looked at

1367
00:59:54,460 --> 00:59:56,201
as, "We're good for urban
or black clothing."

1368
00:59:56,244 --> 00:59:58,595
I wanted to compete
with everyone else

1369
00:59:58,638 --> 00:59:59,900
in the world.

1370
01:00:01,946 --> 01:00:05,166
Rocawear was around
well before Sean John,

1371
01:00:05,210 --> 01:00:08,735
but it wasn't until we saw
the numbers of Sean John

1372
01:00:08,779 --> 01:00:13,131
that I think Rocawear
was able to benefit from that.

1373
01:00:13,174 --> 01:00:16,134
By the time Sean John
came on the scene,

1374
01:00:16,177 --> 01:00:19,398
urban brands were starting
to become a bit saturated

1375
01:00:19,441 --> 01:00:21,182
in the fashion market,

1376
01:00:21,226 --> 01:00:24,403
and I think Sean John
really injected the industry

1377
01:00:24,446 --> 01:00:26,231
with a new pulse.

1378
01:00:28,320 --> 01:00:29,930
I think, for Sean John,

1379
01:00:29,974 --> 01:00:33,020
you know, my whole
muse and motivation

1380
01:00:33,064 --> 01:00:36,241
was what I grew up seeing
in the streets,

1381
01:00:36,284 --> 01:00:39,548
what I grew up seeing--
going internationally

1382
01:00:39,592 --> 01:00:41,942
and how they reacted
to my style,

1383
01:00:41,986 --> 01:00:44,553
what I was just seeing
in my communities,

1384
01:00:44,597 --> 01:00:47,731
and taking it
and combining it also

1385
01:00:47,774 --> 01:00:51,038
to what I was seeing
on the runways

1386
01:00:51,082 --> 01:00:52,257
from all over the world.

1387
01:00:54,259 --> 01:00:56,261
It was the embodiment
of swagger,

1388
01:00:56,304 --> 01:00:57,741
you know what I'm saying?

1389
01:01:00,526 --> 01:01:02,571
When Sean first
started doing fashion

1390
01:01:02,615 --> 01:01:04,486
and having fashion shows,

1391
01:01:04,530 --> 01:01:06,880
they were some of the most
extraordinary moments

1392
01:01:06,924 --> 01:01:08,186
during Fashion Week.

1393
01:01:08,229 --> 01:01:09,666
Everybody always asks me

1394
01:01:09,709 --> 01:01:11,929
why I started designing clothes.

1395
01:01:11,972 --> 01:01:14,714
See, I basically just wanted
to look good, man.

1396
01:01:14,758 --> 01:01:16,760
You know,
to be perfectly honest,

1397
01:01:16,803 --> 01:01:19,980
I always just liked looking
in the motherfucking mirror--

1398
01:01:20,024 --> 01:01:21,808
looking at myself and saying,

1399
01:01:21,852 --> 01:01:24,506
"Boy, goddamn, you look good."

1400
01:01:24,550 --> 01:01:25,943
With Sean John,

1401
01:01:25,986 --> 01:01:27,945
I didn't want to just make it
a fashion brand;

1402
01:01:27,988 --> 01:01:29,773
I wanted to make it a lifestyle.

1403
01:01:29,816 --> 01:01:31,731
I wanted to make sure
that we were able to go

1404
01:01:31,775 --> 01:01:33,646
from the block
to the boardroom--

1405
01:01:33,690 --> 01:01:35,343
that if you had a job interview,

1406
01:01:35,387 --> 01:01:37,476
you were able to represent
yourself the right way;

1407
01:01:37,519 --> 01:01:39,347
if you were going to church,

1408
01:01:39,391 --> 01:01:42,002
you were able to represent
yourself the right way:

1409
01:01:42,046 --> 01:01:44,004
fresh from head to toe,
you know?

1410
01:01:44,048 --> 01:01:46,311
And so we didn't
take no prisoners.

1411
01:01:46,354 --> 01:01:49,314
If Ralph was doing it,
Gucci was doing it,

1412
01:01:49,357 --> 01:01:50,837
Sean John was able to do it.

1413
01:01:50,881 --> 01:01:53,448
And we wanted to do it
just as good as them

1414
01:01:53,492 --> 01:01:54,536
or even better.

1415
01:01:56,800 --> 01:02:00,020
At that time, we were up against
brands like Mecca

1416
01:02:00,064 --> 01:02:02,588
and Phat Farm and Rocawear,

1417
01:02:02,631 --> 01:02:03,937
and we were more sophisticated.

1418
01:02:03,981 --> 01:02:05,722
Again, the quality was better,

1419
01:02:05,765 --> 01:02:07,811
it was toned down
as far as the coloration,

1420
01:02:07,854 --> 01:02:09,377
the fit was different,

1421
01:02:09,421 --> 01:02:12,424
and the price
was a little more higher.

1422
01:02:15,732 --> 01:02:17,777
He said, "Hey, guess what.

1423
01:02:17,821 --> 01:02:20,737
"I'ma do urban fashion,
but I'm not gonna do
urban fashion.

1424
01:02:20,780 --> 01:02:23,740
I'm gonna do high fashion
in an urban space."

1425
01:02:25,742 --> 01:02:28,962
At its heart,
Sean John was about aspiration.

1426
01:02:29,006 --> 01:02:32,009
And so he did
this high-low thing

1427
01:02:32,052 --> 01:02:33,575
at such
a big level

1428
01:02:33,619 --> 01:02:36,796
and turned it into
this global brand.

1429
01:02:36,840 --> 01:02:38,493
He also won
the CFDA award

1430
01:02:38,537 --> 01:02:41,105
for menswear,
which was huge.

1431
01:02:41,148 --> 01:02:42,497
I remember being
at the company,

1432
01:02:42,541 --> 01:02:44,761
and, like, realizing
how big it was,

1433
01:02:44,804 --> 01:02:46,675
understanding that he was
the first African-American

1434
01:02:46,719 --> 01:02:48,199
to win that award,
and you're at--

1435
01:02:48,242 --> 01:02:50,549
you know, and he was
a hip-hop artist

1436
01:02:50,592 --> 01:02:53,291
crossing over,
winning, you know,

1437
01:02:53,334 --> 01:02:56,816
the most prestigious
fashion award for the year.

1438
01:02:56,860 --> 01:03:00,080
Winning that award
was bigger than Sean John.

1439
01:03:00,124 --> 01:03:01,429
It was bigger than me.

1440
01:03:01,473 --> 01:03:04,084
You know,
when we won that award--

1441
01:03:04,128 --> 01:03:05,651
as I said,
we won that award.

1442
01:03:05,694 --> 01:03:07,827
It--we all won it together.

1443
01:03:09,916 --> 01:03:12,484
He was able to show
that a music brand

1444
01:03:12,527 --> 01:03:14,834
can make major volume sales.

1445
01:03:14,878 --> 01:03:17,576
Now we're starting to see
three-digit sales

1446
01:03:17,619 --> 01:03:20,144
from a music-inspired line.

1447
01:03:20,187 --> 01:03:22,886
That just kind of opened
the floodgates.

1448
01:03:22,929 --> 01:03:25,105
All of a sudden,
it became a free-for-all

1449
01:03:25,149 --> 01:03:27,412
and there wasn't a celebrity,
urban or not,

1450
01:03:27,455 --> 01:03:28,848
that didn't get
in the business.

1451
01:03:37,378 --> 01:03:39,772
Well, basically the start
of Wu Wear,

1452
01:03:39,816 --> 01:03:44,733
my expectation of it
was nothing other than really

1453
01:03:44,777 --> 01:03:47,562
self-expression
and stylization--

1454
01:03:47,606 --> 01:03:50,087
a stylization that was,
you know,

1455
01:03:50,130 --> 01:03:51,828
there to accompany our music.

1456
01:03:51,871 --> 01:03:54,352
But I also wanted Wu-Tang

1457
01:03:54,395 --> 01:03:57,746
to be kind of like its own
Polo or Tommy Hilfiger.

1458
01:04:01,750 --> 01:04:03,404
Outkast is like,

1459
01:04:03,448 --> 01:04:06,277
"I'm not gonna keep wearing
everybody else's stuff

1460
01:04:06,320 --> 01:04:07,887
when I can have my own line."

1461
01:04:07,931 --> 01:04:09,671
That makes sense.

1462
01:04:09,715 --> 01:04:13,023
But then, if you don't
pull together the right team,

1463
01:04:13,066 --> 01:04:15,112
that line is not gonna last.

1464
01:04:15,155 --> 01:04:18,245
And you know what?
You might get real estate
in that store

1465
01:04:18,289 --> 01:04:20,160
for 6 to 18 months,

1466
01:04:20,204 --> 01:04:22,946
but you're just taking away
another designer's real estate

1467
01:04:22,989 --> 01:04:24,817
that's really real about it

1468
01:04:24,861 --> 01:04:28,255
and can give
some good product.

1469
01:04:28,299 --> 01:04:30,605
You weren't gonna wear Shady.

1470
01:04:30,649 --> 01:04:32,564
You just were not.

1471
01:04:32,607 --> 01:04:36,524
I mean, there's nothing
that made you think

1472
01:04:36,568 --> 01:04:41,138
that Shady was, you know,
into fashion.

1473
01:04:41,181 --> 01:04:44,141
You know, as a consumer,
you sort of just knew it was a--

1474
01:04:44,184 --> 01:04:45,969
it was a money play.

1475
01:04:47,971 --> 01:04:49,276
They put a million dollars

1476
01:04:49,320 --> 01:04:51,757
behind all these
different brands

1477
01:04:51,800 --> 01:04:53,411
and because they had a hot song.

1478
01:04:53,454 --> 01:04:56,022
You're as hot
as your music

1479
01:04:56,066 --> 01:04:58,024
when you're a musician

1480
01:04:58,068 --> 01:04:59,896
coming out with
a clothing brand.

1481
01:04:59,939 --> 01:05:01,941
They're not really serious
about this.

1482
01:05:01,985 --> 01:05:03,900
They're putting out T-shirts.
They're putting out this.

1483
01:05:03,943 --> 01:05:06,685
You're as good as your brand,
as your music is.

1484
01:05:06,728 --> 01:05:08,730
If your music
starts going south,

1485
01:05:08,774 --> 01:05:10,341
so does the clothing.

1486
01:05:13,605 --> 01:05:15,215
The fashion industry is fickle.

1487
01:05:15,259 --> 01:05:19,045
It goes up and down
just like the economy.

1488
01:05:19,089 --> 01:05:22,222
What happened?
A number of factors.

1489
01:05:22,266 --> 01:05:25,573
You had an oversaturation
of brands.

1490
01:05:25,617 --> 01:05:28,141
You had brands moving too fast

1491
01:05:28,185 --> 01:05:31,275
into doing
the department store business.

1492
01:05:31,318 --> 01:05:33,538
When all the urban brands
started to hit,

1493
01:05:33,581 --> 01:05:37,063
the same stores that used to buy
90% of our collection

1494
01:05:37,107 --> 01:05:39,848
started ordering 40% or 30%
of our collection,

1495
01:05:39,892 --> 01:05:41,850
'cause now it's
a floor space competition

1496
01:05:41,894 --> 01:05:43,374
for newer brands.

1497
01:05:45,419 --> 01:05:47,987
If you're a designer
and you really want

1498
01:05:48,031 --> 01:05:49,597
to stay true to who you are,

1499
01:05:49,641 --> 01:05:52,209
but yet you have a vig
that you have to pay

1500
01:05:52,252 --> 01:05:54,646
or a partner who has
another agenda,

1501
01:05:54,689 --> 01:05:55,821
you're eventually gonna clash.

1502
01:05:57,692 --> 01:05:59,390
We had a partner.

1503
01:05:59,433 --> 01:06:01,870
Our partner probably
had never seen it

1504
01:06:01,914 --> 01:06:03,611
go so fast and so big,

1505
01:06:03,655 --> 01:06:07,267
so he wanted to drive,
at the time, all the time.

1506
01:06:07,311 --> 01:06:09,966
And we were just
bumping heads constantly.

1507
01:06:12,142 --> 01:06:14,492
People would offer me deals
and I was turning them down

1508
01:06:14,535 --> 01:06:15,754
because I'm like,

1509
01:06:15,797 --> 01:06:19,062
"At 3%, 4% of my company?

1510
01:06:19,105 --> 01:06:21,281
"You mean, you're gonna give me
4% of mine?

1511
01:06:21,325 --> 01:06:23,196
That sounds like slavery to me."

1512
01:06:25,894 --> 01:06:27,679
When somebody's paying
for your dream,

1513
01:06:27,722 --> 01:06:29,986
it's not your dream anymore;
it's their dream.

1514
01:06:30,029 --> 01:06:32,292
I didn't like the way
it was made, and then
I didn't like, really,

1515
01:06:32,336 --> 01:06:35,208
what the perspective
of it was,
who it was being catered to.

1516
01:06:35,252 --> 01:06:37,645
You know, I didn't like
big logos all day.

1517
01:06:40,213 --> 01:06:42,563
You can't just say
a hip-hop king

1518
01:06:42,607 --> 01:06:45,349
is gonna become
the next Louis Vuitton house.

1519
01:06:45,392 --> 01:06:47,786
Louis Vuitton was there
over 130 years ago,

1520
01:06:47,829 --> 01:06:49,440
some 100-odd years ago.

1521
01:06:51,181 --> 01:06:53,618
Ralph Lauren Polo
doesn't disappear

1522
01:06:53,661 --> 01:06:56,490
when a particular
style of clothing

1523
01:06:56,534 --> 01:06:58,014
is no longer popular.

1524
01:06:58,057 --> 01:07:00,146
So you're talking about,
you know,

1525
01:07:00,190 --> 01:07:04,063
the difference between
companies that were able

1526
01:07:04,107 --> 01:07:07,893
to establish themself
in a society

1527
01:07:07,936 --> 01:07:10,983
when African-Americans
were discriminated against,

1528
01:07:11,027 --> 01:07:12,680
economically,
in business and such.

1529
01:07:12,724 --> 01:07:14,378
I mean, in order to have a--

1530
01:07:14,421 --> 01:07:16,771
I mean, Levi's been around,
you know, for how long?

1531
01:07:16,815 --> 01:07:20,906
Forever, seemingly.
Right, well, it would have
been impossible

1532
01:07:20,949 --> 01:07:24,475
to have had an African-American
label making jeans

1533
01:07:24,518 --> 01:07:27,826
as far back as Levi's
in American society.

1534
01:07:30,002 --> 01:07:34,615
Unfortunately, they've not had
the staying power.

1535
01:07:34,659 --> 01:07:38,445
Thanks to all our
supporters out there too.
One love.

1536
01:07:38,489 --> 01:07:40,404
Depending on
the flavor of the day,

1537
01:07:40,447 --> 01:07:43,102
the mood of the month,
you know, whatever we're into,

1538
01:07:43,146 --> 01:07:45,148
we wear it,
we're proud to wear it,

1539
01:07:45,191 --> 01:07:48,194
but we put it in a different
class of distinction

1540
01:07:48,238 --> 01:07:49,804
than other designs.

1541
01:07:49,848 --> 01:07:51,458
I think that has
a lot to do

1542
01:07:51,502 --> 01:07:52,894
with a lot of deeper discussions

1543
01:07:52,938 --> 01:07:55,158
about self-esteem,

1544
01:07:55,201 --> 01:07:59,336
distinctions in class
and race.

1545
01:07:59,379 --> 01:08:01,686
Brands are identifiers
as to who we are

1546
01:08:01,729 --> 01:08:03,688
from head to toe.

1547
01:08:03,731 --> 01:08:07,083
And it's always like the grass
is greener on the other side.

1548
01:08:13,611 --> 01:08:15,439
What do you know
about this coat?

1549
01:08:17,528 --> 01:08:19,530
People getting rough
with that coat.

1550
01:08:19,573 --> 01:08:21,836
Everybody wants that coat.
It's an expensive coat.

1551
01:08:21,880 --> 01:08:24,012
I don't feel safe
wearing it

1552
01:08:24,056 --> 01:08:27,407
'cause I feel like
I might get attacked
for what I have.

1553
01:08:27,451 --> 01:08:30,323
This coat right here?

1554
01:08:30,367 --> 01:08:33,761
rob people
for these coats.
They're expensive.

1555
01:08:33,805 --> 01:08:35,459
And the youth nowadays,
like, around here,

1556
01:08:35,502 --> 01:08:37,722
like, in Harlem
and the Bronx, Brooklyn--

1557
01:08:37,765 --> 01:08:41,682
a lot of, like,
the main tough areas,

1558
01:08:41,726 --> 01:08:43,554
this is, like, a big fashion,
these coats are.

1559
01:08:43,597 --> 01:08:44,946
A lot of people get
robbed for them,

1560
01:08:44,990 --> 01:08:46,644
get killed for them.

1561
01:08:46,687 --> 01:08:48,254
Some kid just got shot--
where was he?

1562
01:08:48,298 --> 01:08:50,126
- Bryant Park.
- On Bryant Park for that coat.

1563
01:08:50,169 --> 01:08:51,779
Good evening, everyone.
I'm Joe Torres.

1564
01:08:51,823 --> 01:08:53,868
And I'm Sandra Bookman.
Just a short time ago,

1565
01:08:53,912 --> 01:08:57,655
police charged 16-year-old Corey
Dunton with attempted murder

1566
01:08:57,698 --> 01:09:00,397
for opening fire on
the ice rink in Bryant Park.

1567
01:09:00,440 --> 01:09:02,834
Sources say it all started
with a fight over a coat

1568
01:09:02,877 --> 01:09:04,966
and ended with
two people shot,

1569
01:09:05,010 --> 01:09:06,794
including a 14-year-old boy

1570
01:09:06,838 --> 01:09:09,754
whose family fears
he might never walk again.

1571
01:09:09,797 --> 01:09:13,975
If you know, you seen it,
it's all over the news--

1572
01:09:14,019 --> 01:09:19,155
If I was to buy my son a coat
that costs $600,

1573
01:09:19,198 --> 01:09:22,375
I'm gonna send him to school
with a bulletproof vest.

1574
01:09:22,419 --> 01:09:24,072
Back in the days
in our era,

1575
01:09:24,116 --> 01:09:26,423
you got beat up,
your stuff got taken.

1576
01:09:26,466 --> 01:09:28,381
Nowadays, everybody results
to this crazy thing.

1577
01:09:28,425 --> 01:09:30,383
Like, I watched kids
get shot for jackets.

1578
01:09:30,427 --> 01:09:33,081
Like, you read about a kid
getting shot for Jordans.

1579
01:09:33,125 --> 01:09:34,953
I mean, it's just crazy.
It's--it's disturbing.

1580
01:09:34,996 --> 01:09:36,955
It's actually really,
really disturbing.

1581
01:09:36,998 --> 01:09:40,306
The Air Jordan shoe
frenzy started Friday morning--

1582
01:09:40,350 --> 01:09:43,614
people waiting in line to get
their hands on the shoes.

1583
01:09:43,657 --> 01:09:46,660
In Georgia, four people arrested

1584
01:09:46,704 --> 01:09:49,272
as they tried to get
a pair of shoes.

1585
01:09:49,315 --> 01:09:51,361
Five cops spraying everybody.

1586
01:09:51,404 --> 01:09:55,234
Efren Espinoza just spent $180
for the Air Jordans,

1587
01:09:55,278 --> 01:09:57,715
but now,
all he has to show for the shoes

1588
01:09:57,758 --> 01:10:01,109
are cuts and bruises
to his head and chest.

1589
01:10:01,153 --> 01:10:02,807
I got an abundance of shoes,

1590
01:10:02,850 --> 01:10:04,548
so when I see a kid get robbed
for a pair of Jordans,

1591
01:10:04,591 --> 01:10:06,289
or shot for a pair of Jordans,

1592
01:10:06,332 --> 01:10:09,509
sometimes I sit back and look,
and I'm like, "Damn."

1593
01:10:28,485 --> 01:10:30,530
By the time we hit the 2000s,

1594
01:10:30,574 --> 01:10:32,880
it was kind of like, "Wow,"
you know?

1595
01:10:32,924 --> 01:10:35,840
You got to watch the trends
because of all the traffic

1596
01:10:35,883 --> 01:10:39,409
and all of the activity
that was happening online.

1597
01:10:41,193 --> 01:10:43,674
Before, what our influences were

1598
01:10:43,717 --> 01:10:46,242
were confined to
what was at our reach.

1599
01:10:46,285 --> 01:10:51,159
And now, with the expansion
and the power of the Internet,

1600
01:10:51,203 --> 01:10:56,077
I have access to every
fashion, look, brand

1601
01:10:56,121 --> 01:10:57,470
across the world,

1602
01:10:57,514 --> 01:11:01,953
so I can be whoever I want
to be.

1603
01:11:01,996 --> 01:11:06,044
We're in a space where
they're exchanging so many ideas

1604
01:11:06,087 --> 01:11:11,310
that I think that
we're getting back into

1605
01:11:11,354 --> 01:11:12,529
individual looks.

1606
01:11:15,358 --> 01:11:18,143
It's no longer, you know, like,

1607
01:11:18,186 --> 01:11:20,058
it's either urban or it's,
you know, like,

1608
01:11:20,101 --> 01:11:21,842
it's punk or it's this or that.

1609
01:11:21,886 --> 01:11:24,062
You know, it's not preppy--
it's prep--you know, like,

1610
01:11:24,105 --> 01:11:28,806
all that stuff, to me,
doesn't mean anything now.

1611
01:11:31,461 --> 01:11:34,202
In hip-hop fashion right now,

1612
01:11:34,246 --> 01:11:35,943
people are taking
way more risks.

1613
01:11:35,987 --> 01:11:38,816
They feel empowered
with a lot more freedom.

1614
01:11:38,859 --> 01:11:41,906
It's almost like
the more risks you take,

1615
01:11:41,949 --> 01:11:44,430
the more respect
that you get.

1616
01:11:47,128 --> 01:11:48,652
Everybody wants to be recognized

1617
01:11:48,695 --> 01:11:50,871
and everybody
wants to be noticed.

1618
01:11:50,915 --> 01:11:53,744
I think what really changed
fashion, for real, for real,

1619
01:11:53,787 --> 01:11:57,269
to where a lot of things
are okay, was that--

1620
01:11:57,313 --> 01:12:00,446
the world embracing
homosexuality.

1621
01:12:00,490 --> 01:12:02,535
It's giving people that
would never take the risk

1622
01:12:02,579 --> 01:12:04,145
in style and fashion--

1623
01:12:04,189 --> 01:12:05,799
it's giving them
the green light now.

1624
01:12:08,236 --> 01:12:11,239
People were scared
to just express themselves

1625
01:12:11,283 --> 01:12:14,504
out of fear
of being called a name,

1626
01:12:14,547 --> 01:12:16,767
or being considered
to be uncool in some way,

1627
01:12:16,810 --> 01:12:18,377
or not accepted,
or--

1628
01:12:18,421 --> 01:12:21,249
or being, you know,
bashed for a reason.

1629
01:12:21,293 --> 01:12:23,208
Certain people just assumed

1630
01:12:23,251 --> 01:12:25,210
because I like clothes,
I was gay.

1631
01:12:25,253 --> 01:12:29,606
Now we've learned to just accept
each other's cultures.

1632
01:12:31,303 --> 01:12:32,826
The new young guy,

1633
01:12:32,870 --> 01:12:34,698
he's wearing stuff that's out
the box,

1634
01:12:34,741 --> 01:12:36,613
you know,
that's off the block,

1635
01:12:36,656 --> 01:12:38,702
you know, that's stuff
from across the pond.

1636
01:12:38,745 --> 01:12:41,269
He's wearing different--
different type of brands.

1637
01:12:41,313 --> 01:12:45,926

Swaggin' to the max

1638
01:12:45,970 --> 01:12:48,929

she be busy poppin' tags

1639
01:12:48,973 --> 01:12:52,716

that Dolce and Gabanna

1640
01:12:52,759 --> 01:12:54,152
To see everybody wearing

1641
01:12:54,195 --> 01:12:57,068
Rocawear, Sean John,
and Phat Farm,

1642
01:12:57,111 --> 01:12:59,418
that, you know,
became standard to me.

1643
01:12:59,462 --> 01:13:00,724
That was, like, normal

1644
01:13:00,767 --> 01:13:02,465
to the point
where it was minimal.

1645
01:13:02,508 --> 01:13:04,641
I didn't want to do that.

1646
01:13:04,684 --> 01:13:08,079
It got to things
like Prada and Gucci,

1647
01:13:08,122 --> 01:13:11,822
Ferragamo and Cavalli
and Versace,

1648
01:13:11,865 --> 01:13:14,390
John Richmond,
you know, Dolce and Gabanna--

1649
01:13:14,433 --> 01:13:17,915
those kind of brands.

1650
01:13:17,958 --> 01:13:21,135
You know,
back when I was running
Cross Colours and Karl Kani,

1651
01:13:21,179 --> 01:13:23,573
the artists were talking about
Cross Colours and Karl Kani.

1652
01:13:23,616 --> 01:13:27,925
So I think it's what was being
preached to that consumer

1653
01:13:27,968 --> 01:13:30,188
and that audience
that loves their music.

1654
01:13:30,231 --> 01:13:33,365
So now it's at a point
where it's about Versace

1655
01:13:33,409 --> 01:13:35,585
and it's about
those high end brands.

1656
01:13:35,628 --> 01:13:38,979

head on me like I'm 'luminati

1657
01:13:39,023 --> 01:13:40,720

Versace

1658
01:13:40,764 --> 01:13:42,461

is so sloppy

1659
01:13:42,505 --> 01:13:44,202
I think fashion is cycling,

1660
01:13:44,245 --> 01:13:46,378
and everything comes
back around.

1661
01:13:46,422 --> 01:13:49,468
We're at a period where we're
trying to buy Gucci and MCM,

1662
01:13:49,512 --> 01:13:52,253
and that happened
in the '80s, for me.

1663
01:13:52,297 --> 01:13:54,430
You know,
I remember that period.

1664
01:13:54,473 --> 01:13:57,607
And that's where we're at
right now.

1665
01:14:00,044 --> 01:14:02,263
Most urban people
really don't want

1666
01:14:02,307 --> 01:14:04,091
things made by
other urban people.

1667
01:14:04,135 --> 01:14:07,138
They want things made by things
that they can't attain.

1668
01:14:07,181 --> 01:14:09,532
They want to buy into a dream
just like everybody else does.

1669
01:14:11,882 --> 01:14:13,405
I think we, as a culture,

1670
01:14:13,449 --> 01:14:16,277
we aspire to buy
the Gucci and the Louis

1671
01:14:16,321 --> 01:14:18,105
and Yves Saint Laurent

1672
01:14:18,149 --> 01:14:22,240
because that represents
to us success.

1673
01:14:24,590 --> 01:14:28,420
While urban brands were
for us, by us,

1674
01:14:28,464 --> 01:14:31,902
we were never always loyal
to the brands that we followed.

1675
01:14:31,945 --> 01:14:35,383
There's always kind of
this cache of,

1676
01:14:35,427 --> 01:14:38,038
"I'm gonna go back
to the reliable brands

1677
01:14:38,082 --> 01:14:40,519
"that I'm always used to
because, somehow,

1678
01:14:40,563 --> 01:14:43,217
"those brands have much more
staying power.

1679
01:14:43,261 --> 01:14:45,481
"They represent a particular
social class

1680
01:14:45,524 --> 01:14:46,830
"that I want to be at.

1681
01:14:46,873 --> 01:14:49,397
"They represent
the ultimate and luxury.

1682
01:14:49,441 --> 01:14:52,052
"And the urban brands,
they don't represent

1683
01:14:52,096 --> 01:14:55,186
the same lifestyle
that I aspire to have."

1684
01:14:58,798 --> 01:15:00,191
Young people want--

1685
01:15:00,234 --> 01:15:01,801
they want power,
they want status,

1686
01:15:01,845 --> 01:15:03,237
and they want wealth.

1687
01:15:03,281 --> 01:15:07,938
Hermes--you have a brand
like that--

1688
01:15:07,981 --> 01:15:09,896
you walk in the store
and you see, you know,

1689
01:15:09,940 --> 01:15:12,551
75-year-old women,
you know, like,

1690
01:15:12,595 --> 01:15:14,640
buying scarves and tea cups

1691
01:15:14,684 --> 01:15:17,556
and saddles, you know,
for horses.

1692
01:15:17,600 --> 01:15:20,472
It's a classic heritage house,
you know?

1693
01:15:20,516 --> 01:15:22,387
That young, tastemaker,
cool person

1694
01:15:22,430 --> 01:15:25,346
is buying into
a heritage and legacy

1695
01:15:25,390 --> 01:15:29,873
that, you know--
that people aspire to.

1696
01:15:37,489 --> 01:15:39,317
Everything comes down to class.

1697
01:15:39,360 --> 01:15:41,885
The class conversation is bigger
than the race conversation.

1698
01:15:41,928 --> 01:15:44,191
Show of class is like,

1699
01:15:44,235 --> 01:15:45,845
"I'm high-class."

1700
01:15:45,889 --> 01:15:47,281
And that's what
those brands are--

1701
01:15:47,325 --> 01:15:49,240
Louis, Gucci, all that.

1702
01:15:49,283 --> 01:15:51,590
And that's part of
the reason why

1703
01:15:51,634 --> 01:15:53,940
they're very skeptical about,
you know,

1704
01:15:53,984 --> 01:15:56,856
working with musicians
or rappers,

1705
01:15:56,900 --> 01:15:59,990
because we're considered
to be lower class

1706
01:16:00,033 --> 01:16:01,469
than designers.

1707
01:16:05,561 --> 01:16:09,347
The organized industry
of fashion

1708
01:16:09,390 --> 01:16:14,439
in, you know, America
that I could speak to--
it suffers from a bad identity.

1709
01:16:14,482 --> 01:16:18,574
It wants to parrot what's
happening in Europe. Right?

1710
01:16:18,617 --> 01:16:21,620
It has a self-loathing
atmosphere,

1711
01:16:21,664 --> 01:16:24,754
where we're never as good
as American designers

1712
01:16:24,797 --> 01:16:27,626
as the French or the, you know,
the Europeans.

1713
01:16:27,670 --> 01:16:29,976
Why are we waiting
for external approval

1714
01:16:30,020 --> 01:16:31,282
from this gatekeeper?

1715
01:16:31,325 --> 01:16:33,806
Like, fuck that.

1716
01:16:33,850 --> 01:16:36,635
The luxury brands love us.

1717
01:16:36,679 --> 01:16:37,941
I mean, all the ones
that I talk to,

1718
01:16:37,984 --> 01:16:39,638
they love us.

1719
01:16:39,682 --> 01:16:41,771
They don't just walk up to me
and talk to me about me.

1720
01:16:41,814 --> 01:16:45,209
I think I spend more time
in folks who run fashion houses

1721
01:16:45,252 --> 01:16:47,254
and all the integral
people there, like,

1722
01:16:47,298 --> 01:16:50,954
talking about, like, what
they love about our industry

1723
01:16:50,997 --> 01:16:54,827
and the people they love.

1724
01:16:54,871 --> 01:16:58,048
Lately, a lot of people say,
"Oh, yeah. "You have,
like, you know--

1725
01:16:58,091 --> 01:17:01,007
"you have a lot of hip-hop
and rap and R and B
representative people

1726
01:17:01,051 --> 01:17:05,577
"that love you and support you.
They always come to your show
since many years."

1727
01:17:05,621 --> 01:17:07,840
For me, it's inspiring
because, you know,

1728
01:17:07,884 --> 01:17:10,582
these kids, I mean,
they're really experimental.

1729
01:17:10,626 --> 01:17:13,846
They all come out. And I like
people that's experimental.

1730
01:17:13,890 --> 01:17:15,195
I like people
that are taking risk.

1731
01:17:20,766 --> 01:17:22,899
We're not like
the traditional designers

1732
01:17:22,942 --> 01:17:24,509
that's come through these doors.

1733
01:17:24,552 --> 01:17:26,467
We have never studied
under a Ralph

1734
01:17:26,511 --> 01:17:29,166
or came out of Helmut Lang
and did things like that.

1735
01:17:29,209 --> 01:17:32,691
Like, yeah, our last design job
was at Sean John with Puffy.

1736
01:17:32,735 --> 01:17:34,519
So, I think, even when
we started Public School,

1737
01:17:34,562 --> 01:17:36,956
automatically--
street wear brand.

1738
01:17:37,000 --> 01:17:38,349
You're in this box.

1739
01:17:38,392 --> 01:17:39,742
And we were always like,
"No, we're--

1740
01:17:39,785 --> 01:17:41,395
"you know, we're trying to be--

1741
01:17:41,439 --> 01:17:43,180
"That's not what we're doing.

1742
01:17:43,223 --> 01:17:44,660
"Right? Like, it has nothing
to do with Sean John.

1743
01:17:44,703 --> 01:17:46,139
We work there."
Or things like that.

1744
01:17:46,183 --> 01:17:49,099
We've always,
you know,

1745
01:17:49,142 --> 01:17:51,231
humbly tried not to say
Sean John sometimes,

1746
01:17:51,275 --> 01:17:53,103
depending on who
you're talking to.

1747
01:17:53,146 --> 01:17:56,715
Not being ashamed, but you also
want to be taken seriously

1748
01:17:56,759 --> 01:17:58,195
in those fashion talks.

1749
01:17:58,238 --> 01:17:59,849
Yeah, but at the same time,

1750
01:17:59,892 --> 01:18:04,244
you know, we owe a lot
to our time spent at Sean John.

1751
01:18:04,288 --> 01:18:06,072
Oh, for sure.

1752
01:18:08,814 --> 01:18:12,600
My brand is 100% influenced
by hip-hop.

1753
01:18:12,644 --> 01:18:14,690
Me, as the next generation,

1754
01:18:14,733 --> 01:18:19,216
because of the doors that
Russell, Puff, and Jay opened,

1755
01:18:19,259 --> 01:18:22,393
it's only my responsibility
that I have to do

1756
01:18:22,436 --> 01:18:24,221
what I did in music--

1757
01:18:24,264 --> 01:18:25,875
it's got to be Ralph-level.

1758
01:18:25,918 --> 01:18:27,398
Mm.

1759
01:18:31,184 --> 01:18:33,709
Who's to say
or give a definition

1760
01:18:33,752 --> 01:18:36,363
of what fashion is

1761
01:18:36,407 --> 01:18:38,844
or what category
it should be in.

1762
01:18:38,888 --> 01:18:42,543
If it's great work,
it's great work.

1763
01:18:42,587 --> 01:18:44,763
The freedom,
like, and your mentality

1764
01:18:44,807 --> 01:18:46,765
sort of liberates everything,

1765
01:18:46,809 --> 01:18:48,549
because it's a mentality.

1766
01:18:48,593 --> 01:18:50,551
So if you feel free,
then you're probably gonna

1767
01:18:50,595 --> 01:18:52,728
dress like you're free.
If you dress like you're free,

1768
01:18:52,771 --> 01:18:54,730
then you're probably gonna be
different than everybody else,

1769
01:18:54,773 --> 01:18:58,995
'cause it's untethered.
It's not bound by popular,

1770
01:18:59,038 --> 01:19:00,257
or, like, trendy opinion.

1771
01:19:00,300 --> 01:19:02,650
And that's what freedom is,

1772
01:19:02,694 --> 01:19:05,784
is it's to be yourself.

1773
01:19:05,828 --> 01:19:08,091
Fashion is about
authentic experiences.

1774
01:19:08,134 --> 01:19:10,180
So as long as there's
authentic experiences

1775
01:19:10,223 --> 01:19:11,921
and people that are brave
enough to have a point of view,

1776
01:19:11,964 --> 01:19:13,836
there'll be fashion.
That's what being an artist is,

1777
01:19:13,879 --> 01:19:16,621
and that's what being a, you
know, being a fashion icon is,

1778
01:19:16,664 --> 01:19:19,624
and having the ability
to do something
that no one else is doing.

1779
01:19:19,667 --> 01:19:21,452
If you do something
that someone else is doing,

1780
01:19:21,495 --> 01:19:23,976
you're not fresh,
you're not fly--you just copy.

1781
01:19:24,020 --> 01:19:26,022
What's fly is when someone
comes in and does something

1782
01:19:26,065 --> 01:19:28,198
that no one else does
or does it first.

1783
01:19:31,984 --> 01:19:35,814
To be fresh, to me, is,
to be recognized--

1784
01:19:35,858 --> 01:19:39,513
you know, be recognized
for your individual style,

1785
01:19:39,557 --> 01:19:42,081
or be recognized
for whatever it is

1786
01:19:42,125 --> 01:19:45,693
that you're putting on display.

1787
01:19:45,737 --> 01:19:49,132
And when you are fresh
and you are recognized,

1788
01:19:49,175 --> 01:19:51,264
and people notice,

1789
01:19:51,308 --> 01:19:54,093
and, you know--
even before they notice,

1790
01:19:54,137 --> 01:19:56,922
when you know it--
when you, right here, know it,

1791
01:19:56,966 --> 01:19:58,228
you feel like Superman.

1792
01:20:03,624 --> 01:20:05,496

reefer chiefer

1793
01:20:05,539 --> 01:20:07,628

but me, I get it cheaper

1794
01:20:07,672 --> 01:20:10,109

rapping in the big cohiba

1795
01:20:10,153 --> 01:20:12,851

and swear that I saw Jesus

1796
01:20:12,895 --> 01:20:15,462

and goddamn I feel comatose

1797
01:20:15,506 --> 01:20:18,074

up in there I'm leaning for

1798
01:20:18,117 --> 01:20:20,772

Willie Beamen, ho

1799
01:20:20,816 --> 01:20:23,209

high, I might kill my brain

1800
01:20:23,253 --> 01:20:26,473

she talk too much and
she should get some rain

1801
01:20:26,517 --> 01:20:28,649

you just fuss and complain

1802
01:20:28,693 --> 01:20:31,870

Hit the door and hit the block

1803
01:20:31,914 --> 01:20:33,916

the zombies still hunting rock

1804
01:20:33,959 --> 01:20:35,831

slinging down

1805
01:20:35,874 --> 01:20:38,877
Yo, check this out.
I just got a call from my man.

1806
01:20:38,921 --> 01:20:40,836
My main dog Manny's in town.

1807
01:20:40,879 --> 01:20:43,360
When Manny comes to town,
we got to take care of him.

1808
01:20:43,403 --> 01:20:45,884
He lost his luggage. We're gonna
get Manny right for the night.

1809
01:20:45,928 --> 01:20:47,755
We'll go out to the club,
we'll get Manny right.

1810
01:20:47,799 --> 01:20:50,410
So we set my boy up.
Show you how I do my boy.

1811
01:20:50,454 --> 01:20:54,414
Oh, man. Manny.
Manny.

1812
01:20:54,458 --> 01:20:56,242
Oh, this is gonna
be tough.

1813
01:20:56,286 --> 01:20:58,070
Just got to do this,
dude.

1814
01:20:58,114 --> 01:21:00,986
Dawg, I got you.

1815
01:21:01,030 --> 01:21:03,423
You know, Manny look like
he had a long day.

1816
01:21:03,467 --> 01:21:05,512
so I'm a keep Manny
nice and casual tonight.

1817
01:21:05,556 --> 01:21:07,906
You know what I'm saying?
You look a little stressed out.

1818
01:21:07,950 --> 01:21:10,691
I'm a bright him up
and brighten his day up
a little bit like that,

1819
01:21:10,735 --> 01:21:12,389
Let me see what
I can do with him.

1820
01:21:18,177 --> 01:21:21,093
There you go.
There you go, Manny.

1821
01:21:21,137 --> 01:21:22,965
Got to keep him tight.

1822
01:21:23,008 --> 01:21:25,837
Make sure his head
is nice and right.

1823
01:21:25,881 --> 01:21:27,795
He's just missing one thing--
hold on.

1824
01:21:31,756 --> 01:21:34,672
Right, so now,
Manny's looking good.

1825
01:21:34,715 --> 01:21:37,066
Eyelashes is right.

1826
01:21:37,109 --> 01:21:38,850
Manny's out
for the club tonight.

1827
01:21:38,894 --> 01:21:42,419
Me and Manny, we gonna go
to Palladium,

1828
01:21:42,462 --> 01:21:44,160
go to House of Blues,

1829
01:21:44,203 --> 01:21:46,075
tour the city,
go to Mr. Chow's.

1830
01:21:46,118 --> 01:21:47,641
That's what we do.
Take care of my boy.

1831
01:21:47,685 --> 01:21:48,947
Me and Manny all night.

1832
01:21:48,991 --> 01:21:50,688
That's what it is.

1833
01:21:54,822 --> 01:21:56,912
My boy.

1834
01:21:56,955 --> 01:21:59,784

ain't no other way to run it

1835
01:21:59,827 --> 01:22:02,308

the chains, run the jewels

1836
01:22:02,352 --> 01:22:04,484

the bracelets, run the jewels

1837
01:22:04,528 --> 01:22:07,052

eating everybody's food

1838
01:22:07,096 --> 01:22:10,360

Snatching bend up
for some move

1839
01:22:10,403 --> 01:22:13,102

with a jewel on us

1840
01:22:13,145 --> 01:22:15,756

hotter than a two summers

1841
01:22:15,800 --> 01:22:18,411

them twos on 'em

1842
01:22:18,455 --> 01:22:20,979

in they True Religions

1843
01:22:21,023 --> 01:22:23,634

they be too religious

1844
01:22:23,677 --> 01:22:26,245

on them stool pigeons

1845
01:22:26,289 --> 01:22:28,682

like I kill these bitches

1846
01:22:28,726 --> 01:22:30,510

and we be talking

1847
01:22:30,554 --> 01:22:32,164


1848
01:22:32,208 --> 01:22:34,558

we bad news

1849
01:22:34,601 --> 01:22:36,952

for slim odds

1850
01:22:36,995 --> 01:22:38,997

and long walks

1851
01:22:39,041 --> 01:22:40,564


1852
01:22:40,607 --> 01:22:42,740

nah

1853
01:22:42,783 --> 01:22:44,437


1854
01:22:44,481 --> 01:22:46,178

smell the rose

1855
01:22:46,222 --> 01:22:47,571


1856
01:22:47,614 --> 01:22:49,486


1857
01:22:49,529 --> 01:22:52,619

is being mic or just beginning


